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TUNING KYOSHO’S WAVEMASTER
By Andrew Gilchrist & Tom
Jones
A little effort can transform a Wavemaster fun tunnel into a scalded cat!
Motor: The Wavemaster’s sealed can 550-powered, bushed, outboard pushes
the hull to a top speed of 12 mph. But this outboard easily copes with far more
power.
Running bearings, Octura X640 prop, 7 cells and Kyosho’s 550 modified had
the stock wires and plugs at meltdown. Deans 12 gauge and Ultra plugs relit the
fire.
Fitting a Hughey single gearbox required only one extra hole in the motor
mount to mate with the Hughey’s output plate. Four 5/16" spacers under
the mount enabled an Octura flexhex to the fitted to the output and flex shafts.

Hughey D3.5 and gearbox fit easily to Dolphin Outboard. A test
pin makes an on/off switch.
Fitting a Hughey single gearbox required only one extra hole in the motor
mount to mate with the Hughey’s output plate. Four 5/16" spacers under
the mount enabled an Octura flexhex to the fitted to the output and flex shafts.
The long can was replaced with a Hughey D3.5 11 triple (serrated hard
brushes, red/11oz springs). Kyosho’s steel cooling coil cools and acts as a
torque ring. A 1.91:1 ratio gives 3.5-minute runtimes (1.5-2mins is a lot less
wear and tear). A 17-19-turn arm up to 12 minutes!
To provide a stable and efficient ride angle the stubshaft runs ¼"
shallower than the sponson (at the centreline of the drive dog) and 1-2 degrees
negative angle (rear higher than front).
Seven cells piggyback into the rear of the battery box to place the CoG
6.5" from the transom (27% of hull length).
Speed control: With 6 times the standard torque a micro switch acts like
a detonator. Unless you throw start, wheel stands and flips are unavoidable. A
Hughey speed control was mounted between the radio and battery boxes. Power
cable runs around not through the radio box eliminating one source of leaks.

Power from Hilltop NiMH cells runs through a Hughey 4 speed.
AAA NiMH’s connect to the receiver and servos using instrument test pins
The steps in the control were tailored to the hull/prop using fuse wire to
pinch coils and alter resistance. Reliable wet or dry the control gives smooth
starts fast cornering and ballistic top end, and wheelies on demand!
Steering: The high speeds now reached place high torque loadings on the
leg, testing the standard servo. The fix? A 100oz servo.
Waterproofing: The leaky radio box means expensive electrics are prone to
water damage. I made a braced balsa box with rubber boots for the steering (2)
and speedo (1) pushrods and a pinhole for the aerial and on/off switch wires.
The servo mount was replaced by 3/8" birch section CA’d across the
radio box. Five AAA 550mah NiMHs are half the weight of four AA Nicads.

Power wires from the AAA’s were connected using color coded test
pin/sockets. Power leads were soldered on to the receiver pins. A plug/pin at
the transom makes a water immune on/off switch. Plastic card separates batteries
from receiver and a shelf holds the receiver above any water leakage.
The box was silconed in place. A trimmed lunchbox lid made a sealable
surround and a shirt box the lid. An aluminum tube epoxied to the box holds the
aerial
The Hull – Beef it up! A sharper, straighter stiffer hull significantly
improves efficiency and handling to make the most of the extra power.
Sharper edges assist handling. Spray rails and strakes create lift and
reduce drag. A small L-shaped extrusion sharpens the inside sponson edges. A
1/4" L-shaped extrusion makes an inverted spray rail along the outside of
the sponsons. A strip of balsa wedge stiffens and narrows the ride surface to 1
1/8".
The trailing edges of the tunnel and the sponsons were sharpened so water
breaks off rather than flowing toward the electrics and causing drag.
Straighter: Find a flat surface and weight the hull so the planing
surfaces are at equal angles and the vertical freeboard ‘square’ to the
central hull. Hold the hulls in line by CAing bracing across the transom and
sponsons bottoms.

Hull was trued, the transom was stiffened with epoxy fillets
and the motor mount with ply. ABS moldings sharpened sponsons edges and made
spray rails
Stiffer: In the Wavemaster flex in it’s center hull twists drivelines
and sponsons reducing efficiency (speed) and making handling less predictable.
Cut Quarter sized holes in the sides, bottom and front walls of the battery
box nearest the bow. Between the bottom of the battery box and hull is a sheet
of foam. Running epoxy between these surfaces produces a stiff light sandwich.
To stiffen the ABS motor mount, three layers of 1/6" ply were cut to
shape and laminated on using epoxy. The original mount points were drilled for
¼" screws. The motor pivot was bored from 4 to 6 mm and a new pin turned
to eliminate slop.
Across the transom the vertical surfaces above and below the hull and deck
seam were roughened and filled with a gusset of epoxy.
Internal braces were used to stiffen the front of the hull. ½" ABS
L-sections were inserted through the holes and placed across the hull bottom to
the edges of the sponsons. A generous dollop of epoxy held them in place. The
hull was inverted and the same done across the inside of the deck and sponson.

Pretty: And the 4-color paint job was done using Tamiya TS
spray packs.
Lessons. Get the basics right, no
cheap alternatives, don’t reinvent the wheel.
Hotups create loads some OE parts can’t take. Set up a reliable platform
before using more power. Waterproofing, wiring/plugs, ballraces/props/flexhexs
may seem mundane but they’re trick and fast. If it don’t run, it ain’t no
fun.
Items I thought costly proved durable and capable. Their fun per dollar ratio
improves each run. The cheap gear is in the trash. Would you tear up a $50 note?
Avoid reinventing the wheel. Everyone I asked for help gave it. That includes
Dick Crowe, Ray Fuller, Steve Hill, Ed Hughey, Ian Pearson, Neil Reesor, Greg
Schweers, Allan Shilitto, Jay Turner, Doug Twaits (Jr and Sr), Jeff Vasquez, Ian
Williams and the Wollards. Why fool around when a legend can help?
What we used:
Hull: Wavemaster F1 Tunnel Hull & Dolphin II Outboard $99
Motor D3.5 11/3 $45
Cooling Coil: Kyosho $17
Gearbox: Hughey Single 1.91:1 $52
Coupler: Octura Hex Flex $12
Propeller: Octura 640 $10
Speedo: Hughey 4 speed $52
Wiring/Plugs: Deans 12AWG and Red Plugs $11
Servo: 100oz $40
Paint: Tamiya HS series (4 cans) $18
ABS Extrusions and 3/8" sq. birch: $10

Like a scalded cat - out of the hole and away!
Call 911 this thing’s on Fire! These modifications take a weekend and
transform the boat from a fun runner into a flying, skating ball of fire. The
motor/gearbox combo is deadly. This hull and ‘soft’ gearing run high, dry
and 30+ mph
Special thanks to Andrew Gilchrist & Tom Jones for this great
article. For additonal information contact Andrew at andrewg@maitland.nsw.gov.au
This Article was written by Andrew
Gilchrist Exclusively for Rum Runner Racing. Use of this article is prohibited
without written permission from Rum Runner Racing.
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