1/8 Scale Rules

[vicman]

While we are on the large scale bandwagon and making them work with electric power, it's obvious we are going to have to be on the same page as far as the rules on what is and isnt allowed go.
Some things I have been considering in the event our future may hold a "SHOWDOWN" between electrics and nitro are:

the playing field will be level as far as boat size and weight go, power will be the only factor
are we going to build by thier rules or adopt our own rules
are we attempting to create a true to scale class for fun more than competition

Building and running smaller boats we have come accustom to different ways of doing things that may not cross our minds as not being allowed. For instance, props can be sticking out behind the transom on our smaller boats and on 1/8 NAMBA boats but on APBA boats no part of the prop hub may extend past the transom unless scaled from the real boat.
If we come to some agreement on how we are going to do this now we will have much more fun later without having to hash things out and possibly redo some of our boats.

vicman

[Dan Chase]

Vicman,

If you muddle through all the 1/8 scale posts, you will see we came to some sort of agreement. One thing, it's to early to set the rules in stone. One thing everyone right now seems to be following is the NAMBA 1/8 scale rules, they are a little more lenient then some of the sanctioning bodies.

In a nutshell and someone please jump in if I'm wrong.

1) It's a scale class, the hull must be modeled after an unlimited hydroplane.

2) the strut must be mounted forward of the transom

3) Open motor, 32 cells. Of course if MI allows LiPoly this may not be the case anymore, but I think they are using the voltage equivalent of 32 cells.

Basicly, look at the NAMBA 1/8 scale rules and that's what were following. I hope it doesn't get to the point where racers are arguing over paint chips. Were t small to divide the class between scale fanatics and racers that want to race big boats.

[AndyKunz]

They are using the voltage equivalent of 24 cells with the LiPo packs advertised in that thread.

Andy

[Dennis Whitt]

Yes we were a little flexable this year on 8th scale because frankly...we didnt know what to expect.With the drive dog thing we didnt know how it would effect performance.
How scale did us fe racers want to go.Origanally when we said 8th scale we were talking mostly of size and a good stand off look.Butt this all changed quite quickly into really being scale so in answer to your question.I would find the NAMBA 8thscale rules and strictly adhere to these rules and yo u wiil be safe and competing against other simularly equipt boats.
As far as power I will let you know after the race.

[vicman]

Not trying to be a sore thumb, but what kinda prop shaft were used? Did anyone run flex shafts or wire drives instead of straight or articulated shafts? I dont want to design something that Has to be run by itself.

[Paul]

Hi Vicman,

Well, here's what I did. I followed the IMPBA rules in setting up the hull. Their rules are the toughest and I figured if I followed them that the boat would be legal across all sanctioning bodies. The drive dog can NOT extend past the transom. Now that's just me, anybody else can do what they want. I used .187 flex cable, after seeing 3 wire drives fail in MI you can keep them. My drive does have a small s bend in it. I also did NOT use any Teflon tubing, 1/4" brass stuffing tube only.

Paul.

[K.R.Joye]

Vicman FE 1/8 scale was a big hit at MC5. Yes the rules were laxed a little to help draw as many in to the field as possible. Problem, I don't know where people keep coming up with the notion MC5 1/8th is a 32 cell class. Based on the dialog from these forums it was decided i would be a 24-32 cell class following NAMBA rules for hull setup. Here are 3 current theorys on how to setup a FE 1/8 scale.

1st Concept, take a standard NAMBA or IMPBA 1/8 hull (glass or wood) around 7-9 lbs avg. Drop a big geared 32 cell 2280 BL or Brushed 355 plett long motor in with a 3/16 shaft with a 60mm+ 1/8 variety prop and go play. These boats will be the most durable and probably the most predictable for setup and handling. Speeds should be decent mid 40's for NAMBA nitro 5 lap MC5 setup.

2cd Concept, take a light-layup NAMBA or IMPBA 1/8 hull (glass or wood kit) around 3-4 lbs avg. Drop a big geared 32 cell 2280 BL or Brushed 355 plett long motor in with a 3/16 shaft with a 60mm+ 1/8 variety prop and go play. These boats wont be as durable but should be rockets (if you can keep them on the water).Speeds should be break into the low 50's for NAMBA nitro 5 lap MC5 setup.

3rd Concept, take a light-layup NAMBA or IMPBA 1/8 hull (glass or wood) around 3-4 lbs avg. Drop a D/D 24-26 cell BL or Brushed 355 plett shorty (high rev)motor in with a .150-.187 shaft with a 50mm+ prop and go play. Being the motor is lighter it can be moved futher rearward than the first 2 concepts. Making for a shorter more efficient driveline. Maybe a little tougher to get balanced setup for optimum speed and performance, but can be very competive. Speeds should be decent mid 40's for NAMBA nitro 5 lap MC5 setup. Will run loose and prone to flightyness. Similiar to Unlimited Lights.

Speeds should increase for all 3 concepts as more experience is gained.

WARNING This is not a class for the novice or tight budget minded racers:
*HULLS can be very expensive $300.00-$800.00 range.

*MOTOR/ESCs gear drive combos will run from $400.00 (Brushed)min to over $1000 (BL).

*HARDWARE $200+

*CELLs matched set of 3300 24-32 cell figure $7-10 a cell,
lipoly atleast double that!

*PAINT and DETAIL work, scale drivers engines exhaust and paint add up to a lot of elbow grease time and expense.

Oh, now take all of that and throw it in the water with 4-5 others and take your chances on surviving. It will give you butterflys, goosebumps and quivering hands. And a huge grin!

My take, well worth it!

Ken Joye
`MACH 5 racing'
U64 Squire Shop

[eddieh]

I'll put a sticky on this and we can put all our rule ideas, I think the closer we stay to the namba rules the better ... to keep it fun etc, I think scale is as important as speed... you can have both look at Paul P's / Kens set up ..

when I find the other rules post I'll post it up too

[vicman]

Just tryin to keep myself honest:D
Paul, I am going by the rules set by APBA (so far)
No part of the prop hub past the transom, articulated shafts okay
I like flex myself so I dont want to build it and have to cut up a boat I have already spent a month drawing and fitting.LOL

Everyone that had a bigun out there was a treat to us all. You guys did a great job with these boats, hats off to ya.

[vicman]

To everyone,
I have a 40in sprint cat that has gone fro gas to twin nitro to a highly modified .90 t tiger which has turned yellow from sitting on the shelf for so long because I wont run it with the nitr crowd around here. I've said it before, a real bad taste in my mouth from the stabbing games that have gone on. Not to be forgotten are those that are GOOD ole boys in the bunch, but they are very few now although not forgotten. I dont get that taste here and hope no one ever does. In a nutshell, it got to be NO FUN anymore and thats what people do it for. I would hate to see it happen to the 1/8 scale here where you couldnt build a boat that you like cause it too hard to fit in the rules and still work right, thats why I think that they should be fairly broad to get a better mix and more fun. This is also why I think there should be at least a couple things that are divided between pros and beginners. Maybe even a team race where a beginner is matched up with a old timer and points accumulated for both as a team which could be used for both drivers. Anyway, you guys make it what it is now and I hope it stays the way it is.

[brooks93]

so what are the rules for the 05 season.. the same as last years or what.. I need to know now that I am building one

[K.R.Joye]

Kelly, i'm glad you chose to take the dive into 1/8 scale. So far rules are same as last year.

1) It's a scale class, the hull must be modeled after an unlimited hydroplane and meet NAMBA 1/8 scale hull specs.

2) the strut must be mounted forward of the transom

3) Open motor, 24-32 cells (T Class).

One thing i think will be inforcing for 05 is the hull must be painted to match the original boat. Within reason were not going to get nit picky. The correct UL#s must also be displayed. Also shoes are allowed on boats that had them originally. This may influence many considering a FE 1/8.

You'll have plenty of time to tinker with hull const when those babies are napping. I scratch built some nice scale hulls when my boys were babies.

[brooks93]

thats the plan is to build when I can or feel like I can..LOL

no hurry on the boat but, thats the only thing I am missing to be able to run 1/8 scale. I have everything to fill it already

[jevmax]

Regarding the strut being mounted forward of the transom, are you guys absolutely sure you want to make that a rule? Some of the 1/8th Scale Hydros at MC5 had conventional FE transom mounted hardware. Does it matter?

[froggy]

From a scale point of view it does. Since you dont have a chunck of aluminum hanging off the back of he transom. Performance wise i don't know if it makes that large of a difference.

[brooks93]

that was going to be my question also Jim.. I only remember Pauls boat having the prop under the boat

[jevmax]

Is it the front of the strut nose that must be tucked under the transom, or can no part of the strut extend past the transom? Can the rear face of the drive dog be further out than the back of the transom? I'm building the '92 T-Plus and the transom is inset from the back of the hull almost 1.5". Can we get more exacting on this rule. I hate to spend the time and money, just to have my boat disqualified. Any chance that 1/8th scale hydro will be run at any other race other than the MC?

[brooks93]

if there is enough of them I am sure they will be ran at the CAFE next year

[froggy]

I thought the rule was that the drive dog had to be under the transom. That would mean strut in front of the transom even though the nontrip and winglets continue further back. If built that way there would be no question as to its legality.

[Paul]

Hello Guys,

As far as the strut mounting goes I went by the IMPBA rules which are the toughest on scale. What they say is " The drive dog must not extend beyond the transom unless the prototype boat did so". Now for the NAMBA rule, "The propeller drive dog may extend one drive dog length beyond the transom".

There where boats built both ways at MC5, I don't think anyone really cared because we just wanted to get the boats on the water. Performance wise I don't think it makes a difference because the boats are so big.

So, I really don't know the answer wether you can or can't mount the hardware on the transom but if we ever want to compete in a nitro 1/8th scale event following their rules would be wise.

Paul.

[brooks93]

ya that makes sense.. hmmm. so to make this easier why don't we just follow the Namba rules for 1/8th scale and just make up the power requirements like any motor with 24 to 32 cells or lipoly equivalent

[jevmax]

It would be good to have an adjustable strut on something as experimental as a 1/8th FE Hydro. Where can I get a strut that will allow sor adjustability and still be mounted through the bottom of the hull so that it's not extending past the transom? On a hydro hul where the transom is not simply flat and straight across the back, would the measurement to the drive dog be taken from the point of the hull that's furthest astern? I want to be sure that I cut this right the first time :)

[Paul]

Hello Jim,

My strut is adjustable, just like hanging it off the back would be. The strut I used was from Speedmaster, part #MBDV40. The transom of the boat is where the drive dog should line up with, if the canoes are further back it still needs to be the transom. Here's a guideline, if you look straight down at the deck (like it was sitting in the water) all you should see is the prop sticking out.

Paul.

[jevmax]

Got it! Thanks for the help Paul. I'll get that strut.

[K.R.Joye]

I didnt see any struts mounted on the transom at MC5. That would have been against the rules. All struts must be mounted thru the bottom. And i highly suggest they be adjustable. My setup has the prop starting about 2 drive dogs lengths aft of the transom. It works great, but don't see any reason performance wise (agree with Paul) why it needs to be closer or even under the transom unless its a `scale' issue.

[brooks93]

so does anyone have writen rules for our version of 1/8th scale or do we need to write them to suit what we are doing.

[jevmax]

I think that it would help to write them down, or just say we you are bound by the IMPBA rules for 1/8th Scale, with no exceptions.

[brooks93]

I agree 100% Jim.. I mean if we want to hash them out together and have a master copy I will host them on my website so everyone can link to them.. The just do what you want and put the strut under the boat scares me a bit

[Jeff Wohlt]

Ken, I also saw Paul's bad monster in WI...the strut does go thru the hull. He can adjust it up and down...and maybe a little front to back but not much.

That is one sweet boat, Paul! The work and set up on that monster is nothing less than perfect.

I'm still amazed how fast it ran....so darn much power it is crazy.

[hydros rule]

Okay guys. I have a 1/8 "stand-off" scale hull on its way, scale strut, no hardware on the transom. Any decision on motor & cells? Is this Super Saver concept gonna be something like an IROC racing class? Scale speeds? Anybody drawing-up the actual rules? I'd appreciate some feedback before dumping a bunch of cash into a power plant I can't use. Thanks.

[Dan Chase]

This thread might help...
http://www.rumrunnerracing.com/feforums/showthread.php?t=22205

You might want to post in there as it's only being kicked around in California for now.

[HERBSBOATS]

Hey guys first time doing this only to say that the old shovel nose 34 yrs old that has and qualified namba and impba legal and has placed and won many races in 34 yrs, i just pulled the nitro motor [67 mac ] out and droped in a neu 1527 motor on 10 s lipo, and went to the valdosta saws and set the impba 1/8 scale unlimited record at 67.004 mph two way adverage. I think i still have 5 or 7 mph left boat weighed 21 lbs with 10s 2p lipos. Not trying to brage but this ol classic set some records 34 years ago thanks again every for the help and the opertunty opps typo to do it again guess u can say ol man herbs back

[Ub Hauled]

COngrats Herb, I had seen the news... I heard also she had some reserves for next time... ;)

[HERBSBOATS]

I think i have a reserve. Or i know i do i know i do i'll let everyone know at the next saws i can get to

[Ub Hauled]

Remember, L.A. still has THE SAW EVENT to go... Legg Lake is notorious for fast passes... come on down!!!

[jevmax]

Congratulations and welcome back Herb! We old guys have to stick together. What you accomplished in Valdosta should be an example to a lot of guys with cool old 1/8th Scales sitting on the shelf, that are wondering if it would be possible to convert them to electric. Yes, indeed!!!

[madmikepags]

My Hamms bear was a nitro boat that Ed Hansen converted for me, is easily 20 years old and 22+ lbs and is scary fast w/ a1527/1.5Y on 10S2P, these old hydros run great and mine handles great too.

[eddieh]

Mike you would like the way Herbs boat runs, almost as stable as yours, it was a rock, but the 2p probably had a lot to do with it, I ran my griffon bud on 1p flight power 4900's ( only 25c) no issues what so ever herb had a gorgeous thriftway 2 there too, plus a lot of other goodies, it is VERY doable converting gas 1/8th scale hulls!!

[madmikepags]

yeah and if i can get doug sr to make me a cowl like his I can shave 6 lbs off my boat!!!!!

[tylerm]

Mike you would like the way Herbs boat runs, almost as stable as yours, it was a rock, but the 2p probably had a lot to do with it, I ran my griffon bud on 1p flight power 4900's ( only 25c) no issues what so ever herb had a gorgeous thriftway 2 there too, plus a lot of other goodies, it is VERY doable converting gas 1/8th scale hulls!!


So its possible to run on 1p? what prop(if you wish to share) and what esc were u using?

[madmikepags]

i ran my hamms bear with the 1527/1.5Y on 10S1P with a 450/2 and motor and speedo were cool under 100 batts were in the 130's so thats why i switched to 2P.

[K.R.Joye]

Great to hear shovels are still making a statement in modern day racing. Congrats Herb on your recent accomplishments hope to race with you sometime.

BTW the was it the Thriftway cabover? that ones my favorite!

[eddieh]

ken no it was with the regular thriftway, Herb's scratchbuilt cabover is gorgeous !!! and huge!! LOL it would probably do very well with his 2215

as for 1p and 2 p i was just running saws, but the batts were cool, I ran a 455/2 detongued texas cut and was moving up in pitch when the weather didn't hold out, I wouldn't run this in oval, and you could consider 3700's x 2 as well, many ways to skin a cat, I think ken ran 1p ( maybe he still does) and his boats are very spritely...

also Jim williams ran his 7th scale thunderboat on 1P with a 4035 outrunner, everything was COLD best run of 50+ and he was just getting into props, this will be a lower amp draw setup, depends on what you want and where you are I really think the outrunner system can be used as a district or club class racing system and be a ball and with MUCH reduced costs these bad boyz can spin a huge prop.

[HERBSBOATS]

Hey yall, i was running 1-p till eddie caught up wiyh me at 61 mph, [i think i was only .10 hundreths sec faster]]] thats when i went to 2-p and got the 67. Prop was a 60mm oct , castle 240 hv control. Nue 1527 motor and a whole bunch of flightpower evo 25 lipos

[K.R.Joye]

Hey yall, i was running 1-p till eddie caught up wiyh me at 61 mph, [i think i was only .10 hundreths sec faster]]] thats when i went to 2-p and got the 67. Prop was a 60mm oct , castle 240 hv control. Nue 1527 motor and a whole bunch of flightpower evo 25 lipos


Definately a SAW setup thats way to big prop for that little motor, i've had my Squire in the 67 mph range 12S1P/1527/450/3. Way to airy after it took off did a complete 360 landed keep going(applause from other SAW participants) i decided not to go there again. I'll stick with the safer 62mph 10s1P oval setup.

I've found you need a lot of excess capacity in your esc when running 8-10s setups for max efficency and optimum performance. I simply multiply estimated cont amps by 2.3 and thats min size esc you should be using.

[dauminator]

A quick read of the NAMBA rule book and I find Section 28.D.5 is Electric Scale Unlimited which refers back to Section 21, Scale Unlimited Hydroplane which is our old friend the 1/8 scale nitro scale hudros. The difference with electric is Class "T" power is specified. I may just have to haul my unfinished 1/8 Scale WILDROT Charlie down from the attic and make the conversion. The Czar told me a couple years ago I should do it, now may be the time.

[eddieh]

Ron did you make the switch???

[H1RC]

Four of us have made a proposal to RCUnlimiteds that will allow us to build 1/8th scale electric boats that will meet the requirements in their current rule book with the exception of being electric powered. The RCU rules appear to be the basis for the NAMBA rules which would allow us to also race in NAMBA events. We are in the process of designing a set of plans (based on a set of Roger Newton's plans) updated to the 2008and 2009 unlimited hulls. We have reqistered the 2008 U-5 Formula, 2008 U-7 Formula, 2008 U-37 Beacon plumbing, and the 2009 U-37 Hoss Mortgage. These 4 boats are basically "Cookie Cutter" hulls. Please keep us informed about the latest ideas for Motors, Batteries and ESC's that are being used.

Thank you,
Bob Brackett
Scales Unlimited Racing Team

"The only limits are, as always, those of vision" - James Broughton

[dauminator]

Eddie,

I have been a little busy this winter and have not gotten into my 1/8 Scale Charlie but it is still on my agenda. My intention is to fit it with hard points so I can turn either right with the RCU and UNW boys or left with the 1/7 scales or anyone else who wants to go that way. The power would be 8S-2P 5000 mAh Lipos and the Scorpion Motor that the 1/7 guys use with an articulated shaft.

[eddieh]

Mortgage. These 4 boats are basically "Cookie Cutter" hulls. Please keep us informed about the latest ideas for Motors, Batteries and ESC's that are being used.

Bob will absolutely keep you in the loop, currently a 1527 1.5y neu motor is hard to beat, but the outrunners are showing excellent promise and low amp draws, I truly believe it will be the wave of the future in 1/8th scale, we run everything from a 2280 lehner 11 turn to a 2215 2y neu in our club, but most run the 1527 1.5y

[eddieh]

Eddie,

I have been a little busy this winter and have not gotten into my 1/8 Scale Charlie but it is still on my agenda.



Ron I like that, and I know how stuff gets in the way, but the outrunner should be a good choice I would rather run 6 boats in a heat with a little less speed, then 3 or 4 on the edge, they are just so purty racing!!

c'mon do it!!!:yeah:

[Randy Naylor]

Ron I like that, and I know how stuff gets in the way, but the outrunner should be a good choice I would rather run 6 boats in a heat with a little less speed, then 3 or 4 on the edge, they are just so purty racing!!

c'mon do it!!!:yeah:
My Little Screamer is hitting 56MPH on 455 prop and coming in cold.
http://img651.imageshack.us/img651/4021/mvi2391.mp4

[dauminator]

After the FE Nationals and seeing what others were doing in the various large classes, I returned home determined to go forward with my project in earnest. IMO it is also time to revisit this thread. A couple things jump out at me here, the KISS principal and the desire to get a lot of racing out of one setup with nitro cross pollination so to speak. When I compare the power system that the ESU 1/7 Scales are using which concorms to NAMBA Class "S". At 4.2kW @ 23000 RPM on 8S2P LiPo power, it compares to favorably to the K&B .67 or my old Super Tiger 65ABC running on 50% nitro with a tuned pipe. All my nitro hardware works (props, struts, rudders, turn fins etc.) As I work through this, I will do a blog for all to see.

For argument sake (food for thought): If 1/8 Scales running S class power can run with the 1/8 Scales using T class power, then the class becomes more viable since those same S class powered 1/8 Scales could compete with Q & S Sport Hydros. Should S class power is accepted as the equivalent of C class power, then you could run with the nitro boys too. Oh the possibilities!

[eddieh]

Ron, I believe there was talk or maybe even a proposal to have NAMBA unlimted worded as "Up to T Power" parameters, but I personally would not be in favor of any limiting of power ( for instance changing the spec to s power limits) this is Unlimited.

Generally speaking we race a LOT of Electric Unlimited in District 1 and there a few guys who also compete against the nitro unlimiteds it works in our district,

but I personally have no problems seeing a guy run his scale boat on 8s or even 6s, it takes a certain amount of watts wether it's voltage or amp draw to make these things run well, that said you are also limited by the hull design, believe it or not, it seems nowadays it is easy to over power these things. If i had to offer advice to someone thinking about trying it I highly recommend the neu 1527 1.5y and 10S with the new lipos 1P is doable, and you are not pushing all that weight.

a couple of really fast scales I have seen that were fuel conversions was mikey Pags hamms bear and Herb Stewart's Thriftway, these were both run on 1527 neus,

as for running 1/8th scales with q and s scale hydros "S" is probably no problem but "Q" has a limit of 40 inches which is on the small side for 1/8th scale, ( yes i know there were a few short boats ) but generally speaking the length runs about 43 inches or so....


thought the same for adding t sport hydro, as guys who do not like running unlimited might want to build one if they could put the hardware outside the boat, and it made a place for zippkit type boats....

[dauminator]

Eddie, This is the kind of dialog and insight I feel is needed. Knowledge of what has and is working elsewhere in the country and understanding the ever advancing nature of battery, motor and ESC technology can only enhance how we guide and our expand our hobby. I am on the same page with you on the NAMBA rule for 1/8 scale to make it inclusive of S Class Power. I am going to have to look at the NEU 1527 1.5Y and 10S1P LiPo. That appeals to me from a weight and race day logistics standpoint.

[eddieh]

Ron, yes I miss these dialogues, been away from the mainstream but still tried to follow along, it could be that a 1527 1y and 8s is also viable, I don't know, I went for 10S as I prefer voltage over amps to get my watts,

I do run both the 1527 and the 2215 and for fun and bang for the buck it is truly hard to beat the 1527 1.5y, boats are agile, and accelerate like a scalded cat LOL.... and can race on 1P!! it's like the old street racing days, a guy with a lightweight small block nova could walk all up and down MOST big block powered chevelles, reduce weight reduce watt requirements, and from what I hear the new cells are the real deal and are as happy as clams with this amp draw.

You will find guys want to race and no one wants to walk away with heat races because that does NOT promote the class, even racing and FUN promote classes, I could spin a MUCH bigger prop with my 2215, I don't because I went for the bigger motor for more longevity then speed.

I truly believe the outrunners will work as well, funny enough I am still thinking a feigao motor on a gear box could work !! LOL... maybe something like a 12xl on a 1.4 to 1 tranny ????
I don't know, but these boats do pack air, it's the initial getting on plane that eats the amps.

what i would "like" to see is perhaps a vintage class ( club level) where guys could race the old shovels in 1/8th scale these probably require less power due to their air packing capabilities, fastest doesn't always mean funnest by the way, look at the 10th scale phenom...... these boats are smaller but not by a whole lot.... and look at the speeds they are getting and what they are getting them with...

[Alan]

Eddie,
Let's not forget the plett 370. Also a very powerful 1p set up. Glad to see you back!

After speaking with Brian last nite....I was getting excited by the 1/10th scales...love the fact that they choose the outrunner opposed to p spec.

[eddieh]

Yes Alan I did forget that motor!! Jim williams was also still having sucess with a lehner 2280 11T but I think they are very fragile, ( still have 3 to send back LOL) it is GREAT to be back, very cool, but am so far behind in tech advances feel like a complete newb!!!

Outrunners will be the wave of the future IMHO, the thing is rebuildable... and i also should mention to Ron that speed isn't the key, it is driving and reliability, I know once you were in lane 1, it was go around, or go home LOL... Bastid!!! :eek::yeah:

[raptor347]

I'm getting sucked into the scale racing in a big way.

I wish I could get my hands on an MTO drop sponson hull, oh well.

After watching the 1/7 boats at a couple races, I'm of the opinion that the 4035-800 scorpion on 8S would make a fantastic 1/8 power system. I like it enough that I have one on the shelf. They are hard to beat for the money. It seems that the motor works better at lower voltage, I've had some startup issues while testing on 10S, but on 8S it is butter smooth (reminded me of the startup issues we had with some of the Schulze escs on the Neus when they came out).

One advantage to the outrunner is it turns the same size props that most of the 1/8 boats run now.

The last I heard RCU had spec'd the 1527/1.5y and 10S, but it's been a while.

I've got alot to build this winter!!!!!!!

[eddieh]

Brian, I have one or two Myself!!! I love outrunners, I am building a Zippkit drop sponson, but want to put the hardware on the transom, I think these boats "could" be run together in a T sport Hydro type class, with UP to T spec power like the unlimiteds, guys who want to build an 1/8th scale stay to the rules, but will have an alternate race venue if guys in their club want sport boats or want to race zipp kitts etc .

if I had a magic wand I would see if we could get the zippkitts in an electric version with lower crown, (truer 1/8th scale) I believe it was patterned after a real 1/8 th scale boat and let's face it we are all NOT that exact for unlimted electric, I would rather have more boats running then arguing paint chips...LOL....

[eddieh]

Jim Williams will be using that very motor in his new scale boat so I will ask him to keep everybody updated

[Ub Hauled]

I'm getting sucked into the scale racing in a big way.

I wish I could get my hands on an MTO drop sponson hull, oh well.

After watching the 1/7 boats at a couple races, I'm of the opinion that the 4035-800 scorpion on 8S would make a fantastic 1/8 power system. I like it enough that I have one on the shelf. They are hard to beat for the money. It seems that the motor works better at lower voltage, I've had some startup issues while testing on 10S, but on 8S it is butter smooth (reminded me of the startup issues we had with some of the Schulze escs on the Neus when they came out).

One advantage to the outrunner is it turns the same size props that most of the 1/8 boats run now.

The last I heard RCU had spec'd the 1527/1.5y and 10S, but it's been a while.

I've got alot to build this winter!!!!!!!

Brian, I have been using the 4035 in my 1/8 scale, I started with 10s and it was a powerhouse, a bit too much heat for my setup and so i have decided to use 8s, yet to try it... I am using a Phoenix 110HV believe it or not...
and before I forget, I may have a way to get an MTO droped sponsons, I have been after them for hmmm... close to 4 years, drop me a line if you are interested.

Eddie, I have the same Zipp Kit staring at me off my shelf, that will be my next big project... I think I will use a 3060 on 10s in her...