Castle Barracuda 80M

[D. Newland]

I received my replacement controller from Castle, and the new design appears to have 1/2 of the components on the main board as the last one. Simpler design maybe?

Anyone had a chance to run one of the new ones yet? Any thoughts?

[Jeff Shriver]

So they changed the name from Phoenix 80M to Barracuda 80M? It is a more fitting name. I wonder if you can use the Phoenix Link cable to program it? You could not on the previous version. I really like my "older" 80M.

[D. Newland]

I don't have the "old" instuctions, but I seem to remember there were 7 programming modes.

The new one has 5, but the important ones are there. Brake/reverse type, how much reverse throttle (N/A), cutoff volts, timing advance (though it doesn't tell you the timing degree % like the last one-just low, normal, race and extreme), and starting power.


So I guess that answers my question above re: simpler design.

[AndyKunz]

The software is more important than the hardware. If he had to give up software functionality (it appears he chose to do that) then it usually means he is doing more complex analysis of the data streaming past.

If there are fewer parts, it may be that he did some research to find better-fitting parts. There is a certain threshold of what is required for implementing a BL ESC. He was pretty close to that in the small Phoenix's I have, functionality-wise.

The motor controller market is really starting to boom right now, with many parts being developed specifically for motor control purposes. This includes MOSFETs, drivers, and micros.

Hopefully it won't be long before "The Brushless Problem" goes away. It's a problem that's pretty much unique to the model boat market, so the place that will sove it will be the hobby industry. It won't be like so many of our other improvements (LiPo's, etc) that piggyback on other markets.

Speaking of lithium cells, I saw at Lowes the other day that DeWalt has Li-powered power tools on the shelves. Watch for plummetting prices!!!

Andy

[Dick Crowe]

Castle sent me several Barracudas for testing 2 weeks ago. I beat the living tar out of them and they never missed a beat.
They are a different hardware AND software system. The Software is actually the same software that was developed for the new Mamba car controller. However, some things are different. There are no reverse or brakes on this controller. Trust me, I tried! I popped one in my emaxx and tried every setting there is.

This controller has the smoothest startup and low speed of any I've ever run. It also has a calibration mode that you program to sycronize with your transmitter. Kind of like the old Aveox program. You actually tell it where your wide open, brake and nuetral settings are.

The fets are soldered with special high temp solder, the board also has more copper for more heat distribution and can tollerate near 250 degrees.

This things is good.

Dick

[Jeff Shriver]

Does the Barracuda have water cooling now?

[Dick Crowe]

I believe it will be offered with watercooling for an additional 20 bucks or something in that range.

[Larry Benson]

I got mine today and it doesn't say "M" on it but does say it is the marine version. I like the size of it, it's about half the size of my Aveox. I see nothing on it or in the instructions that says anything about cooling. so guess they figure it won't need it...

[Dick Crowe]

Cooling for this controller shouldn't be necessary. It is honestly rated at a continuous 80 amp. It will run forever at 80 amps without failing and surge to 120. At present I don't own a sprint boat nor have I ever owned one that exceed that rating. Only my SAW boats push it over the top.

I consider water cooling as an insurance policy for those times when you pick up a bunch of weeds and still want to finish the heat. Only then would you probably push it over the top.

When Castle comes out with their water cooling plate it can be easily added to your controller. Just cut the shrink wrap off, place the plate on the fet board and put the heat shrink wrap back on. I plan on doing this with most of my boats.

So far I've tested the Barracuda with:
N2 Hydro
O Hydro
O Sport Hydro
P Hydro
P Mono
P Sport Hydro

I really like the smooth startup and low speed throttle control (for milling for the start)

And you are correct Larry, It's the smallest Controller size and weight for the application that I own. I love it for N2 and O hydro where space is at a premium!

Bang for your buck, it's a tough one to beat!

Dick

[brooks93]

good info to know.. I have been thinking of getting one for my N2 Hydro.. guess if its good enough for mr. crow its good enough for me.. LOL

[Jeff Shriver]

I use my "older" Phoenix 80M for N2 hydro, and it works great. I did have it thermal at the end of my very first run in the boat, but the boat was set up all wrong. Once it was dialed in (or even close to dialed in), I have never had it thermal. I love the "linear" feel of throttle.

[Randy Naylor]

This is good news. I have had to use my Phoenix 80 due to loosing a couple of the 105 at MC5. and have never ran it on anything more than 6&7 cell setup. They preformed well except I did have it thermal at the end of every run, In all the setups that worked perfictly with the 105. Evan with the Phantom 8 with a Hacker 8L and a 642 on 8 cells. This boat runs with allmost nothing in the water and never thermaled with the 105. So Dick if you want some one to beat the living tar out of them just a little harder, I would like to try! Send one of them test punks down hear for me to put threw the paces.

[D. Newland]

Email from Shawn at Castle said that within 30-60 days, the marine versions will be sold w/watercooling. Fuller already has something on his site about this, but I don't know if it's his own design or what...

Anyway, sounds like good things are getting better w/Castle!

I'm sure Castle will be selling the cooling unit separately as well. At least I hope so. It's got to be a "remove shrink-wrap, install cooling unit, re-shrink" setup as they just re-designed the ESC.

[BACKEMF]

Sweet Thanks!!!

[Don Wollard]

Originally posted by D. Newland
Email from Shawn at Castle said that within 30-60 days, the marine versions will be sold w/watercooling.

Last weekend I chatted with Patrick at length about this unit(@ SEFF in Georgia). He specifically said NO W/C anytime soon on the new controls. You might want to double check with Shawn for clarification.

[brooks93]

my understanding was that watercooling will be added by third party with shawns approval and would carry full warranty if done by the third party

[Dick Crowe]

I've spoke with him too Don, both Shawn and Patrick the other day. The only thing that was up in the air was if the unit would have cooling tubes exiting on the same side (like a Hacker) or one at each end (like a Schulze). I told them that both at the same end would be nice but it it wre going to cost much more the Schulze method is plenty adaquate. I had also heard the 30 to 60 day number. My guess is it will be closer to 60.

Dick

[brooks93]

well at least they are adding cooling.. that was my only pet peeve with the first one

[Shawn Palmer]

Hi Guys!

To clarify:

Water cooling will be standard at some future point, and there will be a resulting price increase because of it. it will be factory installed - no 3rd party involved.

We are still pricing and getting quotes from our specs to have them made, and thus are not sure of a specific timeline yet.

From the feedback we've had so far from Ray and Dick and others, with the added cooling, it will become as "bulletproof" or better than any controller in it's class.

The software was changed to improve efficiency, take advantage of an increase computing horsepower, simplify settings down to only the practical ones for boating use, and thus become it's own product, and not a "version" of something else.

The hardware changes also reflect the increase in processor speed and horsepower by the ability to do onboard digital measuring with the processor that the extra external parts were needed for in the past. True, some new parts allow advances in brushless design, but the real advances are all in the code itself.

Shawn

[hydroracer01]

I may have to get one of these brushless controllers, i have been hesitant in the passed because of price and lack of knowledge of brushless controllers and motors. here are some of the things that have been holding me back from getting a brushless system of any kind.

1. does a brushless system provide anymore runtime than a brushed system of the same setup, cells, motor size, amps, volts.

2. are the advantages of a brushless system worth the extra money that is required to buy a brushless system.

3. does a brushless system require a degree in electronics or engineering to operate and use with any success.

4. I know that some people slack off in maintainance a little bit at times and i am one of them. will i be able to do this with my brushless system and still have a brushless system.

[Shawn Palmer]

1) If we're talking as close to "apples to apples" as far as Kv and general motor capability goes - you'll generally pick up either 25-50% increase in your choice of runtime or power, due to the more efficient operation of a brushless system.

2) Personal choice

3) No

4) absolutely

Shawn

[T.S.Davis]

Shawn,

I know you guys recieved mixed reviews on the Pheonix 80 but I pushed mine as hard as any I've owned. Not a problem one. In fact it has become my go to speedo. It's the ONLY brand I've not cooked. Yes!!

If the new version is even better that is really exciting.

If I remember correctly the larger cell count units were going to be based on the same boards that make up the 80. When will the big dogs be available? I just cringe every time I fire up my 32 cell cat. Then I hold my breath for all 4 minutes. LOL

[Shawn Palmer]

No timeline info available on the "big dogs" at this point. :-(

Shawn

[hydroracer01]

thank you very much Shawn for the info on brushless systems. now i have a new question.

I am a complete and total newbie in brushless as i have never owned or opperated a brushless system.

Can you suggest a system that will work in any of my boats that will provide the same or greater performance with longer run time than the current brushed system im running now.

I have a BBY Racing Scat Cat 26 hull, with a Cordite sealed can series SS1 775 motor, and an Astro Flight 207D speed controller. I usually run this boat on 12 3300mah cells some times 16 3300mah cells depending on who im running with or what mood im in.

Looking for an inexpensive system that is easy to set up. somewhere in the price range of 400 dollars give or take.

I also have two other hulls that i run but they all basically have the same setup as the SC 26 700 motor, contoller to match and 12 cells.

[Shawn Palmer]

Any of our dealers can get you set up w/a similar brushless package, and have FAR more experience than I.

Check out:

Offshore Electrics
Fine Design

Any of the above can get you into a drop-in system for your boat(s).

Shawn

[Dick Crowe]

Hey Shawn,

I've been following this thread and you've done a great job, the only question I have is did you edit your message and delete Fullers Fast Electrics from the list of places to get a good setup? I was sure I saw it there yesterday? It could be that the "powers that be" on this board have edited him out instead of you. There is a little rift between the operators on this board and Fullers. But then again it's their board, they pay for it and they can and will do whatever they want. Just giving you a heads up.

Thanks again,
Dick

[Shawn Palmer]

Hi Dick,

Well, that wasn't me who edited out the mention of Fullers Fast Electrics in my original post of one of the places to find great info in general, and our products in particular, in an effort to expand hydroracer01's enjoyment of the hobby.

Shawn

[Randy Naylor]

Well I am impressed!!!!! I ran the Barracuda 80M today with a Hacker B50 8L, 8 cells, in a hydro and a 42MM prop. the cells were 160 the motor was 195 and the sc was 176 and still it worked fine! This was a short course and I was allways turning and If I wes at the big pond and allowed the boat to air out the temps would be we lower. But the Barracuda 80M made it threw it and the old one would have thermaled and shut off for 20 minutes.
I think I am going to sell them my self. good product and I have them in stock. Not a bad deal get a Barracuda 80M and a Nemesis for just a little over 300 bones!

[Strikedeep]

Someone has time to edit someone elses post but no time to fix the search? Drop the crap! Fix the search! Move on.

[D. Newland]

Hey Randy,

What timing mode with that set up, both with the old and new controller?? Did you leave it at the factory setting for both controllers??

[Dick Crowe]

Dave, there are 3 timing modes for the Phoenix and 4 for the Barracuda.

I always ran the Phoenix in Mode 2 for the really hot wind stuff (7S on 6 cells) and mode 3 for the mellower stuff (8L on 8 cells).

I've been running the same settings on the Barracuda. I haven't tried the hottest timing mode on the Barracuda yet. It's pretty advanced, maybe just for SAW timing.

The new Barracuda can also use the new USB connection and be programmed for any timing you want.

Randy,
The new Barracuda controller runs cooler for several reasons. The software is one, but the construction is the other. The board that the fets are mounted on is thicker and has more copper in it for heat distribution and lower resistance.

I've been told it will run to 250 degrees without any trouble (other then the shrink wrap will blow off!

I've done some VERY extreme testing to see if I could hurt it or at least see how far I could push it. So far I have had one shut down, but not because of a thermal. I actually unsoldered one of the motor wires from the board! When I got it back, I soldered it back on and it still works perfectly. I've since added my own water cooling plate and run the controller in the same application and it's been flawless.

This is a very under rated controller.

Dick

[D. Newland]

Thanks, Dick-that helps!

I was told that the timing modes have been upgraded on the Barracuda. I never ventured far from Mode 2 on the Phx 80, so thanks for the feedback.

From what I recall with my conversation with Shawn, the Barracuda timing mode is either going to be more efficient than the comparable Phx 80 mode (same rpm/less amps), or it will have more RPM's at the same amp draw, all other things being constant.

Actually, I guess either way it's more efficient! It just depends on how it will show itself with any given set up.

[Randy Naylor]

Hi Dave
I ran them both on the stock setting the Pheonix 80 will be used only in the micro hydro that is whare it worked best.

[toptrim]

Just got my barracuda 80M the other day from Chris Fine. Hooked it up and ran through the programing. It seems very warm for just running through the program mode. I'm running a 9XL w/ 18 3300's. Is this normal?Has not been in the water yet, this weekend is the test.
Thank's
Chris

[Shawn Palmer]

BEC disabled?

Shawn

[toptrim]

Yep...cut the red center wire.

[toptrim]

I hope they make this right???? Set-up: Barracuda 80M (first use), BEC disabled,9XL, 18 of Chris Fines finest 3300's.Hooked it up, checked program (used default settings), one or two quick blips of the throtle to make sure the motor is turning the right direction. Next day I peaked the batts. Pluged them in. A quick radio check and headed down to the pond with the boat under my arm. about 50' down the hill and ***POOF!!! The boat never made it to the water. Smoke everywhere, burned my arm *ouch* The picture tells the rest of the story. I hope Castle will make this right.... What might of happened?

[toptrim]

pic

[toptrim]

Another pic. See the inside of the hatch...

[hydroracer01]

thats another thing thats stopping me from going brushless, i have never had a brushed esc go up in flames like that, i have had them smoke a little bit then die but never any flames.

That sucks man i hope you get what you need to make the boat run again.

do you use any tape on the hatch or do the foam rubber strips and the latches at the rear of the hatch pretty much keep the water out. Im taping mine up and its getting to be a pain and i was looking for an alternative to tape that will keep the water out. what do you guys use for sealing the hatches.

[toptrim]

The screws and weatherstrip work fine for sport running. Tape on top for racing.

[Dick Crowe]

Originally posted by toptrim
Just got my barracuda 80M the other day from Chris Fine. Hooked it up and ran through the programing. It seems very warm for just running through the program mode. I'm running a 9XL w/ 18 3300's. Is this normal?Has not been in the water yet, this weekend is the test.
Thank's
Chris
Sorry I didn't reply sooner. I really didn't have an answer. We had a race today and just to answer your question I recalibrated the controller to my transmitter and reset the cutoff and timing modes to see if it would warm up. It stayed cool the whole time. Sounds like yours was bad from the beginning.

BTW, today was the biggest race of the season for our club, the "Gold Cup" a Barracuda was in the winning boat, MINE!!!!! I've got Barracudas in 3 other boats and all have performed above and beyond.

Send yours back to Castle with a detailed description. They need to know about this stuff. Castle is a company that strives to get it right and takes every issue like this very seriously!!!!!

Dick Crowe

[toptrim]

Glad to here that Dick. The baggie of what's left goes out monday.

[KbdKid]

I had a similar experience with the Barracuda running on a Nemesis 10xl & 16 cells, turbo trans, and 40mm prop. One of the FET's went and the whole controller fried. The good news is Castle sent a replacement controller at no charge. Now bad news again, the replacement controller blew a FET on its maiden run. I'm giving up on brushless for a while.

[Shawn Palmer]

Toptrim - we'll get that replaced for you asap.

KbdKid - have you talked to us since the 2nd one went? Have we got you taken care of yet?

Shawn

[Jay Turner]

...the replacement controller blew a FET on its maiden run. I'm giving up on brushless for a while. While it is certainly possible to have two consecutive ESCs fry, it is also possible that the setup was somehow wrong. I'm not there so I don't know, but perhaps the gear ratio was inappropriate, the hull was set up too wet, or the ESC was incorrectly programmed. An advantage of an ESC with significant programming potential is the ability to custom-tune it to your application. The disadvantage of an ESC with significant programming potential is the ability to program it inappropriately. :( Given Castle's track record of fixing what's wrong, I see little reason to be "giving up on brushless for a while".

[KbdKid]

Shawn,
I will contact you. As always, your service is outstanding. My dissapointment is with brushless for my application. Maybe brushed is the way to go. I run on a large lake. My Titan is geared 45:60(pinion:spur), 16 cells, 45mm prop, RC Hydros controller, SS1 motor. I have over 50 runs on this combo. Never a problem in all the runs. I tried a Nemesis 10XL, 41:60 gears, 40mm prop, and Barracuda twice. The 2nd controller blew a FET on the 2nd run. I may have done something wrong with the set-up, but a slightly hotter set-up is bulletproof with the SS1. The only changes between set-up are gears & props. I used the default programming for the Barracuda. I do not race, but run for sport. I do start & stop often to avoid going airborne on larger waves. I'm just disappointed that my experience has not shown brushless to be robust for my application. Castle has been A-1 in helping me.

[D. Newland]

K,

Have you discussed this with Fine also? Something's not right. That set up should run all day long. Chris may have a few other items for you to review/check.

I finally got both of my Barracuda controllers tested this weekend in an O-Hydro and O-Sport. Very nice, and ready for the Trent Hare Classic!

[KbdKid]

D,
Thanks for the idea! I spoke to Chris about setting up the turbo trans about a month before I put the Nemesis in. But have not spoken to him about this problem. I will give him a call tomorrow to see if he can make any recommendations.

Thanks!

[T.S.Davis]

Ask Chris about taking a look at your motor. Sometimes there can be something weird going on there that can not be seen from outside the can. I know what your thinking. It's brand freekin new. It would be rare but it would explain the failure of a known setup.

[KbdKid]

Thanks for the advise. I will have the motor checked. Castle is sending out a replacement controller no questions asked. Above & beyond their responsibility in my book. Thanks Shawn!

[tjsmono]

I too just purchased a 80M. Currently running a Ovalmaster 26 on 12 cells and a Nemisis 10XL. 80M was warm on setup and at the lake it only lasted a few seconds before a nice puff of white smoke came from below the hatch. Just sent back to Castle today for replacement. I'm a bit disapointed as this was my intro to brushless as well.

[gilbequick]

I've been thinking about taking the plunge and going brushless.....but I don't know... You all have got my wallet in a worried frenzy!

[Dick Crowe]

I've spoken with Patrick at Castle and asked what was going on with the burning Barracudas. He told me that a very few of the early production boards were being over etched which would lead to this failure. That seems about right as I have 5 of these controllers and had one of them burn on my bench too. I've beat the tar out of the other 4 and can't hurt them.

He also let me know that this issue has been addressed and that all new controllers are fine.

Dick

[KbdKid]

My 1st Barracuda went up in flames June 20th, the 2nd one blew a FET July 25th, waiting on a 3rd replacement. So far I'm batting 2 for 2.

[toptrim]

What's the turn around time for replacement? I sent mine out about 10-12 days ago.

[Jeff Shriver]

Castle is very good about getting replacements sent out quickly. I damaged one at the beginning of this year. I had a replacement within 6 days of sending it in. I was very impressed.

[KbdKid]

Shawn stated he is sending a replacement out Aug 3. Still looking forward to it.

[Larry Benson]

since we are talking about the baracuda here I have a question. I finally got to run mine today and after 2min 17 sec the batteries dumped, brought it in and checked the temp . batteries were 150 degrees, motor was 154 and the controller was 215, melted the shrink wrap but was working fine.
my setup is a Bandit Shovelnose, with a CP50S-4400 motor with water cooling, baracuda 80 controller w/o cooling, 8 Sanyo 2400 cells,and running a X437/3 prop. Is this too much prop for this setup and if so what do you recommend.............thanks for any help........ I don't want to ruin this thing before I get it running good, I want to take it to the lake with me next week and don't want to break it before I get there LOL.:D

[Dick Crowe]

Larry, my guess is you are over propped. 4400 RPM/V is a very tall order for an 8 cell sport Hydro.

The closest thing I've run to that motor in an 8 cell sport boat is a B50 8S which is 4600 RPM/V. With that setup I was pulling an octura x632.

I've since switched back to a 3033 RPM/V motor and swing an x440.

If you want to keep running that combo I'd try Fuller's for the new watercooling plate for the Barracuda 80. I think it's around 20 bucks, but could save you more in the long run.

You may also want to try a Y536. It will ease the load a little more and is the smallest 3/16ths prop I know of.

That's my opinion and I'm sticking to it!!!

Good luck,
Dick

[Larry Benson]

thanks Dick, I think you are right, but the X437/3 was the smallest thing I had for the 3/16 shaft. I have a couple step down stubs coming from 0ctura so guess I'll wait till they get here and make a new drive cable. I have a couple X632 and X432 props that I can try then.

As for the cooling do you think a couple pieces of carbon fiber tube would work for cooling? I have to replace the shrink wrap and thought laying a couple pieces of carbon fiber tubeing between the fets and then shrink wrap it might help with the cooling problem. any side effects from cf tube ?is that stuff conductive ? this is all new to me so I ask a lot of questions............thanks for the answers.:)

[Dick Crowe]

Be careful with the carbon tubes. Carbon is conductive and if you were going to straddle the fets they may come in contact with the fet contacts and short the whole thing out. You will also run into clearance problems when you try and get your tubes past the Motor and power wires. The plate that Fuller sells was designed by me for that controller to cover all of the fets and not interfere with the motor wires.

Don't get me wrong. I get nothing out of this. I was just trying to make something up to help out. There are certainly other options that should work just fine. Just be careful.

Oh ya, x632 or x432 will be a much better way to go!

Dick

[Larry Benson]

looks like cf tube is a bad idea so guess I'll just order a cooling plate from Fullers.........thanks for the help :)

[Don Wollard]

Originally posted by Larry Benson
with a CP50S-4400 motor with water cooling, baracuda 80 controller w/o cooling, 8 Sanyo 2400 cells,and running a X437/3 prop.

Whoa! I concur with Dick. You need a much smaller prop on your set-up. Here is a vid of BrianV running a similar set-up this past weekend; 8 cells, CP50S 4400 in a Slo Mo with a 432 Prop.

http://www.brushless-motor.com/videos/BrianSloMoShun.mpg

Brian's motor and cell temp was around 120 degrees after each run. Besure you have good water cooling to your motor.

[Larry Benson]

wow Don, that looks awesome, did you check the speed, I'd like to know how fast it was going so I can figure out what mine should run. I know it wasn't near that fast. I'll be trying again as soon I get my step down flex cable made.:D

[Larry Benson]

got to run it once tonight and it's getting better, same setup just with my new flex shaft and a X632 prop motor was 124 batteries were 130 and controller was 151. batteries dump pretty fast so next time I'll try a X432 prop and GP3300 batteries, hope to get about 3 minutes run time and a little less heat.:D

[Kris Flynn]

Does the Barra 80 studder badly at low throttle for everyone? it seems to shudder BADLY on my hacker 8XL andaveox 1412 1.5y...

Also, i took my boat out for a run today for the first time with the barra 80 and after about 1min of runnig i broght the boat in the check temps...all was fine...went to go back out and the throttle wouldnt work???

came home, boat on the bench, tried throttle again (small bleeps of throttle) but motor would go until about 3/4 throttle (trigger on tx almost all the way in) then smoke started coming from the controller after about 20 secs of it being connected to batts???? a FET now has a nice burn to it

man this sucks....

[Dick Crowe]

I'm not sure I've run an aveox on one. Just Hackers.
So far very smooth. Sounds like your controller has a bad fet. Send it in, they will fix it or send you a new one.
Dick

[BACKEMF]

OOps, missed the Fried Fet thing above, oh well, interesting stuff below anyway.

I just sent an Aveox (36/30-1.5) back for repair with the similar problem.

At low speeds it would "Stutter" or "Cogg", since I have another motor (Lehner Basic). I tried it on my esc and it worked fine.

Mind you I was using a Hacker 70 esc on the Aveox and like yourself I though it to be the controller. It wasn't BUT...I can't say this is the same for you.

What was wrong really with my motor was that some water came up the drive shaft and got into the motor, along with a little debris. Since I thought the motor was sealed I felt no need to clean it out with WD40 then with Corrosion block.
Big mistake, after the water dried the debris got caught into the Fine Gap inside the motor, betwen rotor and windings.

Try cleaning out the motor using above products and if you have no corrosion X, ,then use alcohol for the second step.

If my Aveox wasn't under warranty then I would have done that myself.
I will be doing this procedure as regular race maintainence from now on.
I was new to B/L and this tid bit of info I got after I sent my motor back.
Dennis Whitt actually diagnosed the motor at the CDN Nat's.

It's worth a try? You think?

[Kris Flynn]

Dick and Ray,

I appreciate the reply's...i will send the motor directly to Castle but do i have to pay for the return postage?

I forgot to say it 'cogged' badly on both motors at low speed...even though the hacker is soooooo smoothe to turn by hand???

on closer inspection there are about 4 FETS fried

must have been a dud...

Kris

[K.R.Joye]

Just put i n an order for a C80M at FDM heck of a deal!
http://finedesignrc.com/speedcontrols.asp#Castle%20Brushless%20Speed%20Con trols
I run all Aveox(american made) motors on my N-2=P stuff so it should be interesting on the COGing effect.
Also is this the C80M a fully manual programable controller like the Hacker 70's?
If so i run the H70 on timing mode 1 on some of my dialed in race setups with the AVEOX motors. I know they recomended T2 but T1 seams to add a few more RPM on race setups.
Would this go the the same for the C80M?

(BTW i run brushed stuff on my Q & up boats still no better bang for the buck out there!)

[BACKEMF]

Yes I would also like to know the answer to your question Ken as I run the Aveox also with either a Hacker 70 or a C80M.
I run a 36/30-1.5 with the H70(Mode1) in a H&M hydro and I can turn a NASTY BIG Y547 (Modified) as well as a x648 Modified as well.
I don't even cool the motor as it never really gets cooking.
I like AVEOX !!! But I haven't tried the Castle on the setup yet.

[D. Newland]

I thought the manual gave timing recommendations for the different motors, but I can't find it.

Call Sean at CC (785)883-4519. I bet he'll have some info.

[David Hajj]

I have the new controller and it works well. I have water cooling on mine and you have make a direct effort at bad setup to get it hot. Just a word of caution. Do not put a colling plate on the power wire side of the board. Only replace the plate that is there and add a simple tube to that. The risk of a short is to great. I heald off on brushless a long time. It is not a pot of gold at the end of the rainbow but it it just another tool. A fun one if you are a gear head like me. Go for it, it's fun. Racing is great but it's not everything in FE boating.

David

[toptrim]

I'm so confused......

Reading the instructions for my Barracuda-80 in section 2.2 it says "do not connect a battery to the receiver" I would like to rum w/o BEC so I can run 18 cells. Are there 2 models? or do I need to cut the "what color" wire of the receiver wires.
Set-up:

Hacker 9XL
18 3300's
1.4 gears
442 prop/445 prop

In a PIP Triton

Thanks for your help,
Chris

[David Hajj]

You need to remove the RED wire from the plug that goes into your receiver from the controller. Take a Xacto blade and lift the little tab and pull the wire out. I hate to cut wires, so crude.
Then tape it to the other wires folded back against them.

Try a X645 at 1.51, you will like it.

Do not go over 18 cells with the Castle 80 ESC. They say 20 but 18 is real world. Keep the smoke in the wires. :-)

Now just plug your regular battery pack into the receiver and you are ready to go.

Take care,

David

PS: That is a fast setup you have for your boat, you will like it.