A Krylon Clear question

[Drobie]

I've only used Krylon Clear once and I probably know the answer to this, but I figure it's best to make sure now than regret it later.

Regarding the base color coat..... if I wet sand the gloss off of it to prep the surface for clear coating, will the any variation in color show through the Krylon if the undercoat is not sanded uniformily to the same level of gloss?

By not sanded uniformily, I mean that there are some of the base color areas that need very little, and others that might require a little elbow grease. The "variation" in color I refer to is actually a variation in the amount of gloss/matte that would remain. The color itself is uniform.

I just want to make sure the clear cloat would even that out?

[Ben Diss]

Variations in gloss/matt will NOT be apparent after applying clear coat. Of course, if you sand through to the primer, you'll see the color difference.

For a really great shine, wet sand with 1000 paper between each clear coat. Put about 4 coats on and of course, don't sand the last coat.

-Ben

[Sheltered]

If you are not sure what something is going to look like with clear on it after you have sanded, "preview" it by taking a wet cloth and wiping the area. The water will show what the final product will look like before it evaporates. If there is a variation that will show with the clear coat, you'll see it "wet". If there is none, there will be none with the clear.

If the paint has sat for a long period of time...lets say a week or more you want to sand the gloss off the surface to insure good adhesion. Many times I use a scotchbrite pad for this.

If it was a painted a day or so before, the gloss surface should still be tacky enough (though you can't feel it) to insure adhesion to the previous layer.

If you are flat sanding for decals etc... you need to modify these steps.

[Drobie]

Thanks guys. The wet with water idea makes sense, so much so that I have to give myself another big "DUH!", on that one.

[AndyKunz]

You probably ought to be sanding wet too.

Andy

[Drobie]

Originally posted by AndyKunz
You probably ought to be sanding wet too.
Andy

Last week, I installed flourescent lighting over the set tub in our utility room just for that purpose.

In addition, concerning matters of finishing, I'm wet behind the ears anyway so it should be no problem. ;-)

[eddieh]

Doug, one thing to remember about finishing, is when you look at paint under flourescent it is the harshest critic, you will see micro scratches that will no way appear outdoors, or under incandescent lighting, just so you don't go to crazy wet sanding, also allow enough bite for the clear to stick too, a really good tip for wet sanding especially for long flat areas is to use a paint stirrer with one layer of paper wrapped around it (free from home depot), this alleviates the tendency to dig in with finger pressure, it's also a great way while primering to show up waves, what I don't understand is if you guys are going for multiple coats of clear enamel, why don't you guys use automotive lacquer aka duplicolor etc,,,, if you are going to this kind of trouble with enamel i don't think it would even be close to a lacquer job,,, anyway I would also think the enamel is much heavier,,,, just curious, cheers eddie

[Jeff Wohlt]

After my color then I wet sand with 600 and lots of water. I have even put on the clear coat first coat and sanded that as well and then shot a couple more.

I also wet sand edges between colors very carefully and then after clear you can't even feel them.

The neatest thing about clear is you can sand the blems out of your paint and then when you shoot with clear it looks like new fresh color again and glossy.

I am just getting into this airbrush now that I have had for 20 years. Figure if I ever want some really hot paint jobs then this will be the tool to use. I played with some water color "Model Master Acrylic"the other day shot some on ABS and WOW...the stuff is so tough I think it actually went into the ABS....I can't scratch it with my fingernail and you can bend the ABS all you want and it won't crack and is so slick feeling !

No fumes...and clean up the airbrush with soap and water in the sink.

[Drobie]

After a most upleasant experience, I am know a confirmed and permanent user of acrylics (unless the particular color I want is available in Krylon rattle.)

I just used Tamiya Acrylics on my UL-1. Good stuff. Should be clear coating today or tomorrow.

I think I'll shoot one clear before adding decals.

BTW, I just sold my Paasche airbrush but have an Aztec. I recently picked up an Aztec 220 on eBay for 10 bucks. It's external mix, so there is essentially no cleanup. It's single action and covers large areas so is great for hulls. You can also swap color just but sticking a new bottle on it. Works great for the big base coats.

[Jeff Wohlt]

Doug...I basically have the same air brush set up and have not used it yet for a boat. Good to hear the unit is big enough for this.

I am very impressed with the water color acrylics! Everything up to now has been Krylon but wanting to do some neat painted graphics and not decals. This should work.

I was amazed at the finish that stuff had...tough, slick and I could not scratch with my finger nail.

Another adventure...I love it!!