Good setup for Cesa/Super Hawaii...

[Sorcerer 001]

I've talked with Chris Fine about doing his full conversion on my Cesa, which involves bolting in one of those huge 800 series Cordite motors, along with all new harware, but I can't bring myself to sending the boat out to be gutted.
This thing has some sentimental value, since it's been with me for around 12 years. It's in perfect shape (seriously), it's only been on the water a few times.
Does anyone have a reasonable setup that uses a couple of 05 motors, will offer decent speed, and doesn't destroy the run time? I'm not trying to break any speed records, this is strictly a sport hull.
Any prop and motor suggestions would be appreciated. Also, has anyone experimented with gearing the stock gearbox?

[Brian Vega]

I used to run both the Cesa and Super Hawaii! As far as motors the best I ever had mine run on was two Magnetic Mayham motors. These would handle 12 cells and was pretty fast for its day. As far as gears I cant remember what gears I finally ended up with but they were perfect for runtime and speed. As far as gutting the boat, Thats up to you, Butt with the setup I had, I gave alot of 12 cell Monos fits with this boat! It even Took first place in P-Mono at the 1997 Wet @ Wild race in Florida! Only because it would handle the Monsoon waves we were running in at the time. I also installed the bearing kit in it and added a turn fin and the trim tabs and used a Tekin 432M Speed control. Good boat for what it is! BV:)

[Sorcerer 001]

Right now, my boat is bone stock with the exception of bearings and the Tekin 432M. Like I said, I just want to use it a a fun, rough water sport boat, It'll never see race duty.
How many turns and winds were those Magnetic Mayhem motors? I would imagine that the advances in motor and battery technology might allow some different combos to be run now.
Is there any reason that those new Maxx motors wouldn't work well swinging a huge prop?

[Brian Vega]

The Monster Motors might work nicely! In fact if I still had the boat thats what I would be running in it. The Mayhams were the same size as the Monster Motors but I think the winds in the Mayhams were like 22 or so, I cant remember for sure. But to answer your question, The monsters will work but the only thing you might want to change is the main cluster gear, try to get a delrin gear, its much stronger than the nylon black one that comes with the boat. You would have to play around with the prop size, cause with those motors I am not sure what would do best! BV

[Dan Proulx]

One of the guys in our club has tried many different setups in his Super Hawaii - including a twin Hughey drive with 05's.

While twin 05's on gears work great - the best all around performance in terms of maintenance, speed, and reliability has been with an direct drive 700BB 8.4v motor turning a 642 or 645 Octura on 12 cells.

You can even use the stock outdrive but I would suggest replacing the bushings with bearings.

I can't believe the performance that this thing gives with this setup. It looks great.

Dan

[Sorcerer 001]

Anyone know where I can get a delrin spur for these boats?

I appreciate the suggestions, but as I stated earlier, I don't want to gut the boat. I like having the molded battery and radio compartment. Don't the aftermarket gear drives require that you cut all that out? Or can you fit them right up against the transom like the stock setup?
I really don't want to cut in to the boat or drill any additional holes. I've had the thing since I was 16, and like it for what it is. I just want a little more speed.

[Dan Proulx]

I believe that the Super Hawaii that I referred to in our club didn't need any to remove the molded in battery locations or any of the servo mountings. He just replaced the stock gear drive with his own mount for a direct drive 700.

I could see if he has any pictures of it that I could e-mail you.

Dan

[Jeff Wohlt]

I have been running mine with stock motors and 12 cells for 2 years. Needs good wire and connectors and keep the gearbox in good shape with clearence in the gears and bearings in gearbox and drive is a must.

I am currently changing mine over to a 700 and will be doing a write up with pics soon. (Only here on RRR)

I like gears but I feel the boat will run faster with the 700 and almost zero maintenance and run longer per charge at the same speed or faster.

So far it is going very easy. I have added a new ply transom and ply bottom in the motor area. Only parts need is a Graupner Flex coupler (or make you own) and a DPI 700 motor mount with the tabs bent back the other way. Fits great but I will still cut out a round hole by the servo wall to run the wire and to be able to oil the rear bushing.

Much easier than I thought and I can tear the motor mount back out and the stock stuff will go back in.

No matter what you will want to install the transom and ply on the hull floor...the stock hull is way to soft in these areas. Especially since you are bashing around and jumping waves.

I will post a full story and detail pics in the next week.

[Allan]

This boat used to be raced in the UK with 12 cells and a bb700 - It was fairly quick (winning in it's day - 4 min run times 9.6 motors). This is a good setup - the boat is strange as there is rocker at the back end - the boats attitude was controlled by a computer adjusting the wing. From this you can infer two things.... 1. the wing postion is critical so make sure you can move it. 2. At it's fastest it won't ride flat - the boat rocks on the rear end causing it to look like it is porpoising - I suppose it is but it's not caused by the water!!

I have a vague memory that this kit was reissued as a 20 cell boat - but that may be my memory playing tricks - It's size certainly should allow this.

A couple of people in the UK tried shortening the boat by about 8 inches (cuts the rocker off) It's just a case of relocating the transom. As it happens I ran a glass version of this from Dateline Marine with 20 cells and a bb700 8.4 Turbo and took the UK 20 cell stock record with one.... The boat was way too heavy but there was a shortage of suitable hulls at the time.

Allan

[popop]

Really some weights examples could help the discussion ...
Drive units pix also ... I'll wait the promised pix ...

On my side, I'll send you ASAP pix of my second electric conversion of my Gancia ... It's currently under way ...

:)

[Jeff Wohlt]

Here is one pic. I will fill in the blanks later on what I did.

[Paul]

Hello Jeff,

WOW!!! That's quite the bend on the coupler. No way to sink the motor down a bit? I've never seen one up close but it looks cramped from the pic.

Paul.

[Jeff Wohlt]

Hey, Paul. It does look worse than it is but, YES, I do need to cut the center of the mount out a bit more to drop the motor down. It should work fine after I get done. Can still use the stck steering rods and all.

I could not find a way with my mount to get it down. I almost built a wood one but wanted the aluminum.

Thanks for the input. So far very easy and all stock stuff still fits (less motor mount) if I want to go back to the gears and 05s.

[Jeff Wohlt]

Paul, The bend is not too bad but I made some new brackets last night and the motor actually touches the hull bottom and is very solid.

It worked out well and has a bit less angle to it. Because of the shaft height on the SH, it seems to be better to have a bend than try to line it up...which ends up making an (S) out of the coupler. It also puts more stress on the stock shaft bearings in the hull.


I may be able to slip out and run it Sunday but I have to leash the 2 yr old to the bumper...he usually does not mind as long as he gets a sucker. :) I'm kidding...he actually is very good at the lake and wears his life jacket at all times. (No calls to family Services, Please)

[popop]

Some examples of plywood and balsa mounts ...
(ABC Gancia / KYOSHO Viper / DANVO Sonia / Graupner Key West)
All are waterproof (Polyurethane varnish)
All are DEVCOM (Epoxy) or Zap (Cyano) joined
On the more powerfull designs (Key West and Gancia) some miniature nails tight the join

It's very quick and easy to do and adjust
The Epoxy join to the ABS hull is reliable if you grid (correct?) the hull gently and apply on it a kleenex with Acetone : It prepare ABS for good grip ! DO NOT deverse Acetone directly !