I hate to cross post but?

[Stano]

I have done a search on read all I could find on striaght shaft setups I Have a good grasp of the motor to the transom I need some help with the transom back? do you fellas have any pics of custom setups from the transome back to the prop with Andy's striaght shaft set ups do you guys run the carbon shafts striaght out the back or are they thru a strut of some sort . Nobody in my area runs boats that I know so I am on my own and very green thanks for any help guys. I can work with brass pretty well a little with aluminum but no way to braze the aluminum for me yet.

Also on the graupner flex connectors I need to go from 5mm 700bb to the 1/8 drive is there such an animal?

Thanks in advance
Stano

[Larry Benson]

hi Stano, I can't help any with the straight shaft info but for the connectors check the members list and get hold of Ned Schmidt he makes some of the best connectors available he does all of mine and I am well satisfied........... check it out :o)

[RCBoatingNewbie]

I'm "green", as well, and am setting up an BBY ABS Volcanic Splash w/ Randy's hardware. This is my second boat in as many months. My first boat was a Kyosho Jet Arrow, straight shaft.

I can't suggest a fact-based solution for your specific application, but I may be able to provide some information.

A strut essentially takes the loading of the prop, the "push", and moves it from the motor to a bracket on the transom. If you run a motor to a straight shaft, you'll be putting end-load on the motor's bearings. You can add "thrust bearings", which would reduce pressure against the bearings in the motor. These typically are placed to ride against the housing of the motor, on the motor shaft, between the end of the motor and a shaft coupler.

Do you need a strut assembly? From what I know, a strut would only add more stiffness to the prop assembly for a straight shaft. Struts are used with flex shafts to position and hold a stabilized rotational point of load. Imagine with a flex shaft, load will bend it silly with no point of bearing of the prop load. A strut, in this case, just provides a stable location for prop load.

I believe the graupner flex shafts have enough strength to take the load without a strut, but don't quote me on that- perhaps someone with more direct experience can be more specific.

Oh, and from posts I've read, you can get just about any adapter from one shaft size to another. I have no advice on resources- the coupler in my kyosho is stock 4mm to 1/8", and I bought two from Randy with the VS (4mm to 1/8", and 1/8" to 1/8" for flex shafts).

Thanks,
Paul

[AndyKunz]

The 5mm to 1/8 adapter is easy.

Use the standard 5mm to 4mm flex that Graupner sells with the 1157 unit. I forget the standalone part number, but I used to sell them myself.

Get a 1/8" ID, 5/32" OD brass tube and cut it to the appropriate length. Cut a notch in it so the setscrew can grab the steel.

Voila.

I recommend using a strut such as the Fine Design unit (gotta love that purple!). This gives rigidity to the drive train and makes it dial-able.

Andy

[Stano]

Thanks for all the info fellas. In Andys striaght shaft the thrust is transfered to the hull from the top side of the stuff box at the thrust bulk head correct? with this strut would I run the carbon shaft thru the stut it self with the bearing on the back side of the strut or does just the 1/8 shaft go thru the strut assy?

Sorry to ask so many questions I have read thru the searches heh

Thanks Again!!!
Stano

[AndyKunz]

Originally posted by Stano
Thanks for all the info fellas. In Andys striaght shaft the thrust is transfered to the hull from the top side of the stuff box at the thrust bulk head correct?

Correct.

with this strut would I run the carbon shaft thru the stut it self with the bearing on the back side of the strut or does just the 1/8 shaft go thru the strut assy?

Just the 1/8". HOWEVER, I don't use a strut on the boats with the glass tube, only on ones with brass tube.

Glass ones glue well to the hull.

Andy