Seal wood boat with Polycrylic or Epoxy?

[twmaster]

Hi Gang,

I am embarking on building a couple of Crackerbox's (Thanks for the plans Andy K) anyway, Which is better or will both do the job? I already have the polycrylic from an airplane project. I expect that this will also require glassing the hull for strength.

Wood boats rule!

[xerox76]

I am working on the " Electrified " right now. I am keeping it simple and to the point. Fast electronics in boats in my addiction, but every once and awhile i need to resort back to the basics of basic.

The electrified skeleton was made with 3/16 ribs and 3/16 square stringers with 1/32 balsa hull covering and sides.

I have always used plain old polyuerethene on my wood boats.

I put a couple coats outside and in and that 1/32 is like a rock.

Just thought I would throw the poluethene in for what its worth.

[Don Wollard]

On my riggers, I use Polycrylic on the outside and casting expoxy cut 50% on the inside. No reason other than I like it that way. The epoxy is a stiffner and is good for strength.

[twmaster]

Thanks for the replies!

Well then Polycrylic it is (easy choice since I already have some) I have finished the hull on the first of the CBOX's, 1/20th scale only 10 inches long :)

Just about ready to install drive gear then putty and sand the hull. Boat is built of 1/16 balsa formers, sheers and keel, 1/64 plywood hull sheeting and deck, 1/16 x 1/8 balsa for the bottom and chine stringers, 1/16 basswood for the transom. Feels quite strong much to my suprise and delight! And cheap too, less than $5 in the wood to build.

Pictures later. Wood boats rule.

[xerox76]

the best boats are

wood
cheap
strong
slick
built by hand.


sounds like you are having a blast!



Don Wollard


casting expoxy cut 50%


could 5 minute epxoy mixed about 70% resin 30% hardner work also?

I hve brushed expoy before and found the more you mix the faster it starts to string,

wondering if i cut the harderner amount if it would by some time, or if there is somehitng other to use.

[vicman]

xerox,
It would be best to buy a slower setting epoxy or work faster. You shouldnt change the mix ratio of these epoxies. It causes them to be gooey or not very strong. If you have 5 min, you could "thin" it some with acetone to make it easier to apply but keep the mix 1:1 as the label says or youll regret having to scrape it off your boat. Another option would be to section the boat off into more manageable areas and do it section at a time, preferably at dimensional lines. Last option would be to buy some 30 min epoxy and do it with that. Once it hardens it is a little stronger than 5 min epoxy but youll probably never notice the difference in this application. Final note, epoxy thinned with acetone tends to penetrate into the wood much easier. This is great for strength but needs a second smoothing coat before it cures completely.

Hope it helps

vicman

[Don Wollard]

I agree with Vic, for the most part here.

Its probably not a good idea to use 5 minute in your case. I have used 5 minute with OK results however 30 minute would be a much better choice of material. Thinner's which work include Denatured Alcohol, Strene and Acetone. I like Denatured Alcohol best. Its just easier to use and you generally get a longer pot life, generally. Different epoxies have various reactions so your outcome will vary subject to the thinning materials used.

Good luck. Happy Boating!



Oh! Wood Boats Rule.

[xerox76]

good deal- thanks for the help.

I didnt even think about a slower setting epoxy,,

Get so wrapped up in looking for the fastest setting glues you forget there are others out there. lol


well i ended up with ployeurethene inside and out-

so I think I will build anouther electrified hull jus tto mess with the 30 minute epoxy angle.


take care

make some wake!@