Soldering Brass

[airdevil85]

does anyone know what brand/kind of solder to use? also should I use a soldering iron or a torch?

Thanks, Matt

[AndyKunz]

Depends on how heavy the brass (thickness) and how strong a joint you need.

Andy

[eddieh]

Matt, also depends on the application, generally with small brass it's easier to use a soldering iron, and if you have a bigger iron (80w )for batts it should do just about everything, I recommend silver solder for all drive componets, the regular tin/lead shtuff is fine for cooling coils etc, sometimes youneed to use two different solders if you are doing multiple joints, ie a very good silver solder for the main, and then less and less as the temps needed for silver are higher and this way you will be able to solder without desoldering your other work, I personally use a small torch bought from micro-mark, I use either propane or mapp gass, it was worth the investment, I also like their silver solder very much, but it's a bit pricy, the bulk of your soldering could be done with the good solder from home depot, anyone got a good source for cheap silver solder???? hope it helps cheers eddie

[airdevil85]

thanks for the info, where can I get one of these torches?

[eddieh]

Matt, follow this link, this is the one I have http://www.dxmarket.com/micromark/products/81657.html
I also use a butane powered chef's torch they cost more at micromark, but this is what they look like, I got mine from williams and sonoma, (and you guys thought going shopping with the wives can't be fun argharghargh!
http://www.dxmarket.com/micromark/products/82559.html
have a look around the catalogue neat but pricey, the minimill they offer is the same as the one from grizzly, and the mini lathe is the same as harbor freight, neat stuff,cheers ed

[Sheltered]

I've had great success with Stay-Brite solder sold at hobby shops. I've normally use it with a propane torch, but it works with a iron too. It is a tad pricey ($6-7?), but not bad. It comes with an eye drop style bottle of flux. I've soldered brass, stainless, copper with great results.

[KevinW]

You still haven't given the application. If a real strong joint is rrequired, high silver content solder (40-50% silver) is the only way to go.

The price might startle you but, just get a friend or three to split the cost with you. It runs around $25-$30 an ounce (depending on the world market price of silver). An ounce is a lifetime supply for the average person since it comes in a thin wire form. Look to your local welding supply shop for the solder and for the proper flux to use with it. The best flux that I have seen is a black colored flux sold in a plastic tub, it looks like black mud).

You have to use a torch as an iron doesn't get anywhere hot enough.

A good torch (such as the one Eddie pointed out) or one like the new baby I just got (a butane/nitrous oxide micro torch), is a necessity. A standard hardware store propane torch will do the job but, it is much more difficult to produce good work because the heat produced is lower and it is spread out more.

Here is an example of some of my silver solder work. No problem keeping the blades on. Try that with Stay Bright!

[toyboy4145]

He is asking for the hardware on the Hydromite that he is getting.

[Doug Forrester]

I have been soldering my own struts, rudders/pivots, etc. for years using Stay Brite solder (4% silver content) and I have never had a problem with strength and durability. I would certainly not attempt to soft solder (soldering iron heat & 4-5% silver) blades on a prop. That application definitely requires hard soldering (high gas flame heat & at least 30-40% silver content)

[airdevil85]

sorry, haven't had time to reply, I will be soldering the hardware for the hydromite.
I have soldered brass before but, it has been a awhile. I solder that I used to use isn't carried by the hardware store anymore. I used to use an 80 watt soldering iron but, I have lone since retired that iron, would a torch be easier?

[eddieh]

Easier, probably, but definately more versatile, with a torch you can then braze aluminum, (see thread on this forum) and do all kinds of other neat stuff, soften metal, harden metal, cook weeners when your working late in the shop, really cool stuff, won't replace the soldering iron for batts though,,,,, good luck,
Kevin nasty looking prop!!! great job, how does it work???cheers eddie

[Doug Forrester]

It suddenly occurred to me that there is one important step in my soldering technique that I've never mentioned before. Previously, all my hardware has been soldered with a Weller 140 watt gun. Recently I got tired of constantly replacing the tips too often and I bought a Weller 80 watt iron (meant for stained glass work). It has lots of metal in the tip/heating element and therefore holds its heat well.
The one bit of technique that I referred to is that on all my brass to brass or brass to steel joints, I tin both contacting surfaces first with just a thin coat of solder. Just this little detail makes it so much easier to flow solder between both parts when the are held and heated together. I also add some more solder to the joint at this time.
Try it. I think that you will find that it makes it much easier to get a perfect, smooth, well-flowed solder joint every time.

[Jeff Wohlt]

I tried the torch but just a tad too much. I then used the 40 watt iron and no problems. A mini torch may be the ticket.

Stay-Brite is the best...although I hear that this stuff is about 10 times as strong.

http://www.brownells.com/Product/index.asp

It is used for guns and the such. I have not tried it but I hear from good sources it is strongester than stay-brite by far.

[RiverRunner]

Cotton Cleaning Rags? :)

[airdevil85]

how do you solder with cotton cleaning rags?
won't they catch fire?
lol j/k

[Doug Forrester]

What is this, the RRR Comedy Club? :D

[RiverRunner]

http://www.brownells.com/Product/productDetail.asp?ProductID=030001125&CategoryID=0

[airdevil85]

ya, that looks more like solder lol I am gonna have to order me some

[airdevil85]

I have ordered a micro torch, hey ya can't beat 4 bucks lol
what do you guys think?
would it work?

heres the link
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=1747092788#DESC

[Jeff Wohlt]

LMAO----Doug...you kill me. I thought that was the right link...right place just wrong url. It comes up for me on my bookmark so beats me...one of those hidden things. I laughed so hard when I read this that my wife asked what the heck I was reading.

Anyway...soldering with cotton cleaning rags is a bit tricky. The same reason I don't use a torch anymore. Wife took it away from me...said I was a crazy man. The cat learned not to walk across my boat bench...have not a a problem since and no cat hair on my boats anymore. When I walk out the door with a boat she runs and hides....you anin't seen a strut until you watch that cat strut!

Thanks for the laugh..sorry for the wrong info.

[RiverRunner]

Jeff,

Glad it tickled your funny-bone. :)

When navigating a frames-based web site, just right-click on the intended link and select properties. This will present the actual URL that you can then cut-n-paste.

[Jeff Wohlt]

yea....I might want to check those better. Lord knows I don't want to copy in some bad urls!

Anyway...I hear this is good stuff (Force 44).

I am using the Stay-brite and have never had a strut problem up to 16 cells so far and one with some plett power. Not a crack or a problem.

As Doug said, tin them first. I also usually scuff the metal a bite with a 3M scotch pad to clean any shine off.

[airdevil85]

would this torch work?
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dl...1747092788#DESC

[Jeff Wohlt]

Sorry the link does not work.

You really don't need a torch. I have been using my 40w with the 1/4" chisel tip. Just rub it back and forth and get it heated up and then lay it in there. Not very hard.

I also don't have excess on mine. I also put mine at an angle to solder so the solder staying in the corner/wedge.