Clear coat what brand

[JimClark]

Just wondering what kind of clear coats people have used with good results. I am getting ready to paint my new boat and need to put clearcoat over some of the decals. On my first boat I found a Behr 603 that worked well except it had a amber cast to it and it made paint repairs next to impossible because you were not able to match the color. I want one that is truely clear this time. A possibility is Krylon Acrylic Crystal Clear spray. Anyone ever used this Krylon product?
Thanks
Jim Clark

[TomL]

I've used "Polycrylic" water-based polyurethane gloss clear weith good results. It dries super-hard and is non-yellowing. I use a sponge brush to apply several coats until smooth and glossy. Sand with 200 grit before applying, and with 400 grit between coats.

[Reed Eagle]

Jim,

I've been using Krylon Clear Coat with good results. I wet sand the finished color coat with 600 grit, wipe clean with denatured alcohol, then apply my decals.

I then spray 2-3 coats of Clear, very lightly, and allow to dry for at least 24 hours. Rub out with polishing compound, add wax, and your all set.

Remember to use the same paint Mfg. as you used for the paint. Believe me, they all are NOT compatable!! Been there, Done that.

Reed Eagle

[JimClark]

I am going to do a bit of testing before I put the clearcoat on. I can't use the samy manufacturer of paint as I have custom mixed paint. I am going to try the acrylic krylon to see if there are any problems with the paint.
Thanks
Jim clark

Originally posted by Reed Eagle
Jim,


Remember to use the same paint Mfg. as you used for the paint. Believe me, they all are NOT compatable!! Been there, Done that.

Reed Eagle

[Steven Vaccaro]

I have also used Krylon Clear. Worked great for me. Hasn't yellowed or anything like that. Also I haven't had problems with
hatch tape pulling it off. I am going to use it again on this winters project. The only problem I found with Krylon is limited base colors.
StevenV

[JimClark]

That is why I have had to get my paint custom mixed. Infact I got it today. Hopefully will have the boat primed and one of three colors done by monday.
Jim Clark

Originally posted by Pagemaster
I have also used Krylon Clear. Worked great for me. Hasn't yellowed or anything like that. Also I haven't had problems with
hatch tape pulling it off. I am going to use it again on this winters project. The only problem I found with Krylon is limited base colors.
StevenV

[Drobie]

I use Krylon, with "no-need-to-change" results.

A lot of products are probably equally as good. I think the thing to avoid is mixing finishes, i.e. acrylic over enamel, water-based on oil-based or vice-versa and etc.

I'm suprised at Tom L.'s results with Polycrilic. My wife and I built a house a couple of years ago with an all wood interior. For 9 months, we spent every non-working, waking hour varnishing. I tried a ton of products and found water-based polyurethane to leave somewhat of a milky finish. Almost imperceptible, but stark when you hold it up against a high quality oil-based clear coat.

[TomL]

Originally posted by Doug Robichaud
found water-based polyurethane to leave somewhat of a milky finish.
there must have been some kind of reaction to what was underneath. My dad builds lots of houses every year with stained wood and the Polycrylic always comes out clear. You know it looks milky in the can, but dries clear. When used with oil-based finishes, you have to make sure it's absolutely dry or cured before applying the clearcoat.

When used over a pray-on pain like Krylon, etc, just give the paint a few days or a week to dry in some warm weather or similar, so the Polycrylic goes on well, and dries clear.

[JimClark]

So The paint I am using is a Marine Enamel the Krylon I was going to test was an acrylic available at arts stores. You seem to say they will not work together. What do you reccomend for an enamel paint.
Thanks for all the help everybody
Jim Clark
Originally posted by Doug Robichaud
I use Krylon, with "no-need-to-change" results.

A lot of products are probably equally as good. I think the thing to avoid is mixing finishes, i.e. acrylic over enamel, water-based on oil-based or vice-versa and etc.

[Drobie]

Originally posted by Jim Clark
You seem to say they will not work together. What do you reccomend for an enamel paint.


I can't for sure say they won't work together. Not mixing mediums is simply somewhat of a standard advice.

Kind of like don't go in the water for an hour after you eat. A very small percent of the time you might get a cramp.

The two finishes you're thinking of using may work together, but you can avoid the potential that they might not by sticking with an enamel clear coat.

[JimClark]

So does anyone know of any enamel clear coat products?
Thanks
Jim Clark

[Drobie]

Originally posted by Jim Clark
So does anyone know of any enamel clear coat products?
Thanks

Generally, and as yet another rule of thumb, problems can be avoided by sticking with the same manufacturer as the paint.

You said your paint was custom mixed. If you had a paint shop mix it, the folks that supplied the paint might be the best ones to suggest a brand or supply a clear coat.

Testors and Krylon both make clear coat enamels.