General Building Question Re West Systems

[P_J_Glor]

How much resin is required for a 1/12th scale hydro (Jones Classic). This would include resin over cloth for a mahogany finished deck, interior sealing and external sealing of surfaces to be painted (bottom/sides). Trying to figure out how much to buy.

Thanks.

PJ

[hydronut]

How much resin is required for a 1/12th scale hydro (Jones Classic). This would include resin over cloth for a mahogany finished deck, interior sealing and external sealing of surfaces to be painted (bottom/sides). Trying to figure out how much to buy.

Thanks.

PJ
It does not take all that much,If they have quarts available 1 qt will be more then enough with plenty left over.

[icelert]

Get the smallest size(group A) which is a quart of 105. That will be plenty for at least 3 models with the construction methods your using. If resin is being applied in areas w/o glass go ahead and thin it down 15-20% w/ alcohol, it saves on resin usage and boat weight while still waterproofing your hull.
I purchased the mini-pump set as well. The pumps distribute the right ratio of resin from each can with each stroke. For small batches where the pumps are too much, I bought a digital scale like this one

http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=93543

Oh and by the way save all your jello and pudding cups :p

[P_J_Glor]

Thanks. They carry West Systems at the local hobby shop, and I have seen quart cans. I'll have to check on the fabric, as I have heard that the glass cloth sold on line is less prone to wrinkle.

Pete G.

[icelert]

If you can buy your glass locally you have less chance of wrinkling because they can roll it in kraft paper and a cardboard tube. I am not sure if many online sellers will ship it this way. Usually they fold it, put it in a ziploc and send it in a padded envelope.
For me wrinkling isn't so much of an issue as snags. With lightweight glass it can get runs or snags similar to nylon stockings. But still, if you are applying multiple layers these will disappear when you get to sanding and clear coating steps.

[JimClark]

The small bathroom dixie cups work great for mixing small amounts of epoxy. I also have a set of stainless measuring spoons for mixing the proper ratio.

[indymike]

For measuring small batches, get 2 syringes available at most hobby shops. Mark one at 5/8 inch from the bottom of the “reservoir”. That one will be for the resin. Then mark one at 1/8 inch from the bottom of the “reservoir”. That one will be for the hardener. Obviously, you can change the graduations from 1/8’s to ¼’s, but make sure keep the ratio of resin/hardener the same (5 to 1).

You would be surprised how far one small cup can go. I like to spread it on with an acid brush wait a few minutes for the epoxy to penetrate the wood, then using an old business card scrape off any excess or spread onto the rest of the area. Do the same for other portions of the hull. After curing, sand the area to knock down any bumps, and apply another very thin coat. Let it cure and your on your way.

Another way to thin out… Use a hair dryer to heat up the batch. This will not change the chemical composition of the epoxy by adding alcohol.

Try using the West Systems fillers too… many different types and sands easy too.

[mbarbee]

PJ .. Try some colloidal silica - It is a thickening agent for epoxy. It's not a filler like microballoons. You can turn your West Systems 105 resin into a glue. Use a syringe to apply it. This is FAR superior to 5 minute epoxy.