how to prep wood boat for paint?

[Tremors]

Hi,
I'm about done building a wood/balsa boat. I've searched past threads and found that my best option for painting the boat would be Krylon paint including the clear coat. Nothing fancy, just one simple color. My question is what to use to prep/seal/waterproof the hull. I'm quite confused on this. I'm not trying to be a Picasso here, just looking for a smooth durable finish. I'm thinking to coat the hull with thinned epoxy and then spraying the krylon over it. Any other (easy) options?
Also- I'm not sure if I am going electric or nitro with this boat... is krylon nitro proof?
Sorry if "nitro" is a taboo word in an electric forum... :-)
Thanks millions, Geno

[twmaster]

Geno,

I have had very good luck with poly-urethane. Minwax has some stuff called polychrylic which works well, sands nicely and cleans up with water. No matter which way you choose, epoxy, poly, or whatever the remainder is the same, sand the first coat per the instructions on the can, then put on another coat until you are happy with the finish. Prime if you like, then paint. A snap!

hope that helps.

[eddieh]

Geno, at the risk of sounding like a broken record, I really like Parks lacquer based sanding sealer (usually found in home depot by the floor finishes) it's almost exactly like the old dope sanding sealer, this goes on easy , dries really quick, and wetsands like a dream, it will fill in most of the pores, the rest will fill in with the primer, and then the colour coat voila, good luck, cheers eddie

[Tremors]

ok, how does this sound? Think this will give a waterproof durable finish?
I should note that the bottom of the hull and the deck is thin ply (1/32). The sides are balsa.

1-Sanding the wood hull and deck smooth. Also to note...I did use some regular balsa filler to fill in some voids where the deck joins the hull.
2- First coat of 30 minute epoxy.. (thinned with alcohol)
3-Sand smooth
4-Second coat of thinned 5 minute epoxy.
5-Sand smooth
6-Krylon spray paint- hopefully no more than 2 coats, sanding between the coats.
7-Final light sanding.
8-Clear coats- light sanding between each clear coat.

I didn't mention a primer coat between the epoxy and krylon paint because I'm not sure if it's needed.
Thanks for any input, Geno

[twmaster]

That should work fine Geno. Just take your time with the sanding.

[Doug Forrester]

None of the finishes mentioned, especially Krylon paint are resistant to glow fuel with nitro.

Epoxy is nitro resistant.

[Daddy O]

Guys,

I know most of you all like to do your own work and some even into painting. If you have a compressor and at least a touch-up gun your painting costs can be drastically reduced. Try going to a local auto-body shop and ask if they have any paints you can have. You will be surprised at the amount and colors they have just sitting around. You will probably only need to go to the paint store and pick up some laquer thinner (for clean up) and reducer for the paint type. I purchase clearcoat (tis fuel proof) and use it on all my hulls.

I never use balsa for a skin on my hulls. I feel the fillers and work to smooth it up add weight and unnecessary time to building. I use automotive 2 part primers for sealer. The first coat is nearly sanded off, the second coat I add a few drops of black or maybe my final color to the primer. This allows me to locate the low places during my second sanding. We all like the top side to be as flawless as possible. But beleave me you will be more please to know you got the bottom slicked off.

I have purchase some nice glass hulls and checked the bottom with my aluminum straight edge, only to fine pockets/bumps in the bottom. Oh and my built boats get those 10 point clamp pockets all the time. (hand held during glue set) I always take 600 grit paper on my eleven inch aluminum angle and wet sand the bottoms to sharpen my edges and remove any bumps or pockets. Check those rigger sponsons also.

I'm not into competition but do want the best results from my effort.

Thanks for listening.