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toyboy4145
02-04-2002, 04:53 PM
Just wondering if you have to solder the area right before the motor connection if you have to cut back the flex shaft. This is my first experiance with flex shafts, all others have been staight shaft. Any help would be greatly appreciated.

Jeff Wohlt
02-04-2002, 04:58 PM
They say to solder this end with Silver solder to help keep from unwinding on the internal shaft.

The problem -- I have a heck of a time doing this..the solder just will not suck in. I have cleaned and wire brushed it. I think using some paste flux may be better. I did use the Stay-Brite but it just beaded up and dripped off. I even cleaned with acetone forst.

Any one know why?

toyboy4145
02-04-2002, 05:01 PM
Thanks for the help jeff, I was thinking about binding it with wire before i did it, will that hold it long enough to solder it from the cut edge?

chris10987
02-04-2002, 05:18 PM
Hey Toyboy you dont have to solder the flex shaft at the end. All of my boats have flex shaft in them and once i find out the lenth for it i just use a dremel with a cuting whell and cut it and then round off the end with it and it does not come unwound.











Chris
"New Orleans Fast Electrics"

Avenger
02-04-2002, 05:18 PM
what i did was take our oxy acetalen torch w/ the smallest brazzing tip that i could find and melted the end of the ting together, it did not increase the size of it so i could get it in the conector, and it made a nice neat little "ball" on the end. just my 2c

toyboy4145
02-04-2002, 05:23 PM
thanks for all the help guys!

chris10987
02-04-2002, 05:27 PM
No you dont have to. None of myne arent and they do not come unwound on me.













Chris
"New Orleans Fast Electrics"

Avenger
02-04-2002, 05:38 PM
mine did once, so instead of it happining again i just did that to it!

Pooley929
02-04-2002, 07:28 PM
I've never had any problem with it, but if you must do it use the flux it will work none of mine are done:D

Paul
02-05-2002, 07:11 AM
Hello Guys,

I solder all my flex shafts with 60/40 and not necessarily to keep them from unraveling. When you solder the end and use a flex hex it gives a bit more "bite" so the cable doesn't spin. You don't have to do it but I wouldn't run one without soldering it first.

Paul.

AndyKunz
02-05-2002, 07:25 AM
Just make sure you clamp it good.

Lead is a lubricant.

Andy

rcrdps
02-05-2002, 12:42 PM
If you're having problems getting the solder to stick you might try a little acid flux. Also, heat the part,... not the solder. Also make sure that you don't leave any excess solder on it. If there is a blob on it, it will vibrate or cause friction if it's in the stuffing tube. Also, try to keep it right at the end. If you solder too much of it, you risk soldering in a permanent curve.

Paul
02-06-2002, 08:28 AM
Hello Guys,

If you're having problems getting the solder to stick you might try a little acid flux.

I wouldn't recommend the acid flux, although it sure speeds up the process if you don't neutralize the acid completely it will eat the cable in short order. I think the method I used to use for neutralizing the acid was letting the part sit in vinegar overnight.

Paul.

Ray Bidwell
02-06-2002, 10:10 AM
Paul vinegar is an acid (Acetic) you should neutralize with baking soda a base (sodium bicarbonate).

Jay Turner
02-06-2002, 02:30 PM
There are several reasons to solder the cut end of the flex cable. One is to keep it from unravelling, but the other is to minimiuze cable whip. Several posters have noticed a vibration in their cable if there is a significant gap between the flex hex and the stuffing tube. A little bit of solder seems to stiffen the cable enough to prevent whip, while no solder allowed whip and vibration. Too, by toughening up the end of the cable with solder it compresses less when tightening the flex hex, allowing a better 'bite'.

A few soldering tips - it is often tough to get the solder to stick well to the cable ( which always seems to retain some residual oil ), but if you use a good flux, heat up the cable and get a bead of solder on the cable - then wipe the solder with a dry paper towel into the cable windings. This usually does work, forcing the solder deep into the cable. If you get any buildup of solder above the level of the cable windings, use sandpaper to dress it down to be level with the wire. The solder doesn't 'have' to be evenly distributed around the entire cable, although that is best. Cable life is extended by soldering the cut end, and in the few cases when I've not done it, I am sorry I did not.