Mono Hardware

[Ryan_from_OHio]

This is some hardware I designed. I used a basic concept and worked with it and this is what I came up with.

The goal here is to provide people with a cheap easily made hadware system, that works. I have made a few runs with the boat and I have made revisions to improve the hardware. I feel I have come to the point where I can not improve on the actually running hadware anymore. The rudder is of a sophisticated design that will sweep away thew ater. The drive mount is pretty darn rugged and stout for thin aluminum material. All in all I think you all will enjoy making and using this easy to make easy to use hardware.

For all of you who want cheap hardware and just are not handy enough to make it (or dont have the time ;) ) I will offer various kits to what you need. From all parts needing to be assembled to fully outfited hardware. Theese will be at nominal cost and I am positive it will be cheaper than any other hardware I have seen yet.

Currently I have materials to build 6 units (materials and fastners) minus the Octura hardware.

For you builders,

Heres a materials list:

1-1/6" thick X 1" x 12" Aluminum *revised*
1-.032" thick x 1" x 12" Brass
1-.217 Diamter brass tube
1-.032" thick x 1/2" x 12" Brass
1-.03" thick x 4" x 6" Aluminum sheet
1-5/32" music wire (steel)
1-Great plane nylon steering arm # GPMQ4264
2x Octura OC4LTS (theres only 1 per package so you need 2!)
1- Bru line pushrod seals. Bru Line part # 100 They come with a metal bracket and 2 screws per seal This brand is a MUST! no substitutes.
6X 4-40 SS button head cap screws 1/2 Long (for motor mount-will need to be trimmed)
6X 4-40 SS washer, lock washer + nuts
2x 8-32 SS Sockect Head Cap Screw (SHCS) 3/8" long*revised*
2x 8-32 washer and SS nylon insert nut*revised*
4x #2 SS wood screw, or brass shorter the better (I used 1/4") *revised*

You will need the following tools as a minimum:
Drill motor
dremel tool with sanding drum + cut off wheel
small rat tail file
small flat file
5/32" 7/16" 3/32" drill bits
Soldering iron, prefferably 40+ watts (1000 degree end)
Silver solder (plumbing type with NO LEAD) this stuff is STRONG!

To view the drawings I sugguest Delta Cad (what I use). You may also open it with anything that will open .dc or .dxf files.

Download a trial of delta cad here: http://www.dcad.com/demo.html

Please not all you need to do is download the software and install it. Open the file, then go into the "File" section in the program (upper let in the toolbar) and select "set Print Region". On the menu that pops up goto the one marked "Print Scale". There pusht the number one button, not .1 but number 1. THen just print it out. Double check the printout with a ruler to determine its properly sized.

After this just cut it out, double side tape it to the material and goto work on it!

If anyone would like the files please e mail me and I will send you it!

I built this hardware for my BBY Oval Master. It is intended for 6 cell monos. I am sure it will have more applications then just the Oval Master, but keep in mind 6 cell use.

Heres a few pics of it. Comments please :)

This is the final revision of the hardware. Not bad I got it right in three times just like her maiden run.

[Ryan_from_OHio]

next view....

[Ryan_from_OHio]

and the last.

Ok,
I took 3 new pictures of the fully revised hardware. Its not on the hull yet as the final clear coat is drying. Man that hull is gonna look like glass! Now I just need to improve my painting skills which really really stink!

[Zippifried]

Hey Ryan!

That looks like some work!!! :) Hey, I have to mention, the brass will get UGLY QUICK, though, being it tarnishes so readily... How much does this setup weigh? Brass is super cool to work, but, it IS heavy, but it solders / welds good!

With some borrowed hardware in OH, my CG got thrown off a bit (the Naylor hardware was a bit heavier, hanging off the back of the boat, CG was affected more so than I imagined, too far forward on borrowed hardware). I have FEW choices in pushing the CG BACK- the receiver battery (4 AA NiCd's) is already in the back end of mine... the cells are pretty much "here is where they FIT, they won't FIT elsewhere", and the servo mount plate is ALMOST butt against the transom...

This'll make the end of the boat a bit heavy, and that can help with the CG, depending on where you need it to be! Though, I keep reminding myself of Eddieh's alu brazing post, "get the WEIGHT out!"... hahahahaha

Quite a bit of effort in this, that's for sure! Looks great! Not sure what can be done to keep from hazing and getting darker, maybe some folks can offer up additional advice!

Nice work!

Take Care,
Paul

[Ryan_from_OHio]

I kind of anticpated this. Instead of polishing it on a buffing wheel I just sanded it nicely with 800 grit.

When it gets ugly enough or I get bored enough (whichever comes first) I can just take some more and shine her up.

As for weight I have no clue. Its not aluminum thats for sure. I have been thinking about possibly putting some holes down it to lighten it a tad.

As far as CG goes with this boat and mounting and such... Im not to sure. I kind of tossed everything in to get a clue. The reciever is all the way in the back. The reciever batts are mighty close. The servo is up pretty far. I put the motor at 2 1/2" from the back. With the motor mount I made 2" makes it to awkward. Nothing on the inside is set in stone yet.

Im just waiting on coupler and some more assembly.

I believe I will make it this time to Cleveland on the 13th.

Hopefully I will have another toy or two but who knows for sure.

This stuff is very time consuming.

[Zippifried]

Hey Ryan!

800, you're most of the way to POLISHED! Do the 800 over real good, 1500, then some 2000, then get some car buffing compound and a dremel buffing wheel, and you're SHINY!!! :)

Oh, hold on, some guys out there will tell 'ya to scuff it up... LOL... I think it's opinion on polished vice scuffed trailing surfaces on hardware, heck, how much of a difference does it make anyway? hahahahaha

My rough sanded rudder tarnished QUICK! It's already dulled a tad, though, it was handled QUITE a bit (if it feels smooth, it IS smooth, right? :)). I think more fine a finish, it'll dull up less quickly, and for clean up after running (blotting water off), polished will be a bit easier....

I CAN tell you, the "Naylor Stainless Hardware" that Randy offers with BBY boats goes like this: Stainless steel strut, stainless steel rudder, stainless steel rudder mount, stainless steel control arm soldered / welded to a collar, all mounted to an aluminum U bracket. It's pretty heavy... I think Alu would work for everything but the rudder rod.. Maybe that'd be my "hit something, intended failure" safeguard! hahahaha

Take Care,
Paul

[Ryan_from_OHio]

If I was to polish it I would hit it with my 6" 1" wide convulated fiber wheel. THis will alomst fully polish it. Then replace that wheel with my buffing wheel.

I could buff this out in under 20 mintues from fresh stock.

:)

I hate doing it tho as it gets hotttttt.

Randys hardware looks nice, Kinda wish I would have got mine in time for the fun run.

As for the scuffed up vs polish its a stupid ordeal.

After viewing good info I decided that polishing is for looks vs performance. Only at high speeds will you see a gain, and this is a very small amount. Were talking maybe .1 MPH. THis info comes from the rcprops site. What is said their I will take to the bank and call it gold. That man is the prop master :) Especially since he shares stuff, unlike other prop gurus.

And polished verse scuffed we are talking mild paper, not like scuffing with 80 grit or anything. Im talking 400 grit or so.

All mine is brass but the 5/32 music wire, which is just a piece of cold rolled steel.

I just hope this hardware will work good and I hope people will request the file and use it. I know how it feels to be new and not know what the heck to do. But between reading posts here and asking questions is what will get me on my feet.

If I know 1 thing for sure, its that if RRR didnt have this board I wouldnt be messing with a FE boat.

Thanks guys!

[eddieh]

Zip, I was thinking the same thing, this would be killer in aluminum, and lighter, but if you cut out the centers of the brass it should be much better with out losing structural integrity, as for polishing vs rough, another way to go is to chock a dremel cup wheel in a drill press or drill, and do that engine turned finish, if you want the brass polished and to stay that way, polish it, wipe down with alcohol or lacquer thinner, let dry, heat it up slightly with a blow dryer, and spray it with a light coat of lacquer or clear enamel, my 2 cents, ryan really liked the hardware man, cheers eddie

[Ryan_from_OHio]

Thanks for the positive feedback!

I am thinkinf of putting some 3.8 holes down the mounts to take some weight off. My Main batt pack is up about 1" off the motor so I can take some weight out of her.

Now I need to start on my next projext, a Ned Schmit turtle hull!

Looks like it will be fun!!!!

Trying to decided surface or sub surface.

[twmaster]

Ryan,

Nice looking job on the hardware. Putting holes in the brass to lighten it up is a good idea. It will make the structure somewhat weaker but not weak enough to matter IMHO.

Keep at it and you'll be in the hardware business lickety Split!

[Ryan_from_OHio]

With the new aluminum mounting bracket comes a change in this hardware. Im going to try 1 more change as I noticed something I didnt like while running tonight. Once this change is made or isnt I dont think there is anymore room for improvement on the design side.

I will be getting the revised parts list and drawing ready.

Remember people, all you need is a drill bit set, a dremel tool with cut-off wheel, drill motor, soldering iron and some solder and its easy to make.

I also plan on offering this hardware pre made for cheap. So if you cant make it yourself I can have a kit or fully assembled with or without all the additional stuff. I have enough material to make 6 of theese at this point, all mounting hardware included.

Have fun,

[johnny5]

Ryan
I bould like a copy of the drawings if they are still on offer as Im new to fast electrics and would like to have a go at builing my own drive unit
thanks
john.young9@ntlworld.com

[Ryan_from_OHio]

I will send the plans out right away.

Everyone please note the final revisions have been made. I have update the first post fully for all the revisions.

Please re read the first post to make sure you have all the current and correct information.

I will have pictures of the new hardware up very soon, before Sunday for sure.

But untill then look at the old hardware and it will give you a good idea of what it will look like.

Kits available!

[Ryan_from_OHio]

The three pictures have been updated.

See you Alan and Howard on Sunday?

What time should I arrive?

Will have the oval master done for sure and maybe the Turtle?

[toyboy4145]

Ryan,
Looks good. How wide is the rudder in the pics? You might want to consider putting some more rake in the rudder, shaves wieght and reduces drag. Have you made any turn fins and trim tabs? Great job for your first set. Better than mine.

[Ryan_from_OHio]

Nate,

The rudder is 1/32 brass and is 1" wide and 2 1/4" tall overall.

I think its light weight as is? How much more can one do to this you think?

I wish I had a scale that could weight the setup so I knew.

I do have a set of trim tabs in the dramings but think Im gonna run wthout them. The last run I made at the pond it started to porpose slightly but not much at all.

[toyboy4145]

trim tabs will definatly help the porpoising. With the rudder i just meant to say increase the leading edge radius. Heck try it the way it is and then change as needed, thats what i do. Have fun with it.

[Eric B]

What do you guys think of putting this hardware on a Warehouse hobbies Force 21 or 22?

Thanks,

Eric

[Ryan_from_OHio]

After todays run Im gonna make a small material change to the motor mount to make it heavier. THe size will be the same. Just use .062" material. I guess the .03" is just to wimpy...