View Full Version : Joining balsa
Spawn_X
10-12-2002, 02:33 AM
Ok so I finally started making monos.. got the frame perfect, but one problem..
What is the best way to cut out the exact shape of the bottom / side pieces of the hull from balsa sheets? If I glue on the balsa sheet and then trim it, then I end up with not-so-equal sides...
My apologies for this stupid question, but I could not find an answer anywhere on the web.
Thanks.
p.s. ANY balsa/wood hull making websites you guys have would help a LOT.
Thanks again.
roostertail11
10-12-2002, 07:57 AM
i might be wrong, but if your frame is even and equal then the pieces will be the same on each side. thats how i build my monos and they come out equal on both sides.
Spawn_X
10-12-2002, 11:24 AM
my hull frame is even on both sides,
however the problem comes in when I am trimming the balsa sheets on the bottom... at the middle where they join and on the side I cannot seem to get a perfect join because I am trimming it by hand with a hobby knife.
Was just wondering if there is a proper way to do it.
Thanks again.
toyboy4145
10-12-2002, 11:47 AM
Start with one bottom piece. Work from the transom forward. Tack it at the transom then work the wood towards the bow marking it for the cut against the keel, Then work off of the glued down first peice the same as the first. You will learn all the little tricks in time.
eddieh
10-12-2002, 10:52 PM
Spawnx not sure I understand your problem, but from what I am reading the framework is how ya want it, all even etc, now your gonna skin it with balsa, one trick I have done is to take a manilla folder put it down as if it is balsa trim it till it's perfect, now if you flip it over it should also be perfect for the other side, there is also something to do before planking or sheeting and it will save you a lot of grief, it's called fairing, get a paint stirrer (sp?) glue some 120 grit paper on one side, the whole length now sand the frames gently length wise, this is fairing them in getting the right angle on the frames to accept the sheet with out the bumps, this works very very well, the stirrer will be a useful tool as it's great also for asanding out any waves in the boat etc, just a thought, cheers eddie
Spawn_X
10-13-2002, 12:15 AM
I'll do that for the top part, thanks.
I guess this is pretty much just a matter of practice, and I'll learn all my tricks in due time..
I just finished making the bottom part of the hull, now all i have to do is finish the top and I'm set..
for those interested its a small (24" i believe) mono hull (not a deep vee).
after its finished I'm going to give it away for 20 bucks maybe (just the cost of balsa i spent on it).. going to have pictures of it as well.
Thanks for all the tips!
P.S. Any sites you recommend (with pics preferrably) ?
Daddy O
10-16-2002, 02:27 PM
Well gents, I get my frame and bulkheads done. Then I cover the bottom of the boat with 1/32" ply. I cut to close to the desired angle at the keel, the take a sanding block to trim it slowly to a point where it matches the angle for oposite side. apply oposite side and do the same. I do all outer sheeting the same way. I prefer the ply to balsa on sheeting. Balsa requires more sealer and is easier to puncture. Yes the ply edge is exposed but the paint seals it well.
I have no idea how anyone could cut perfect pieces to cover a boat, angles and all to fit perfect.
There you are. Oh I use a 11" long aluminum angle with sandpaper glued on it for my sanding of the edges.
eddieh
10-16-2002, 09:29 PM
Daddy o, I like the aluminum angle idea!!, but if the hull has a slight curve to it, the paint stirrers work well, especially if you make friends with the paint guy and he gives you a couple of the 5 gallon stirrers, cheers eddie
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