Let's talk about connectors and wiring....

[eddieh]

Ok, from what I was reading, the amp draw will be in the 30 amp plus region, so I am going to assume that
1. 12 awg is the minimum
2. that the powerpole/sermos connectors will be inadequate
3. will zero loss connectors be ok (astro)
4. am I also assuming that end to end soldering of cells is a must, with the 2-3 times the normal qty I think all the "extra" resistance of deans bars would add up?

any thoughts on this????

cheers eddie

[Paul]

Hey Eddie,

Well, 12 gauge wire for sure, gold bannana plugs (3.5s) and I'm not sure on the end to end or side by sides yet. As far as amps go I'm pretty sure your looking at a 50amp average. 30 sounds really light, LSH boats will pull better than that plus your wanting to run 24 cells and that raises amp draw by itself.

Paul.

[eddieh]

Thanx paul, I am seeing if 10 gauge is available in silicone, good advice on the connectors, 50 amps huh,, better throw a couple of kleenex tissues in for good measure, those batts are gonna be crying....;)

[Dan Chase]

I agree with Paul on the gold Banana plugs. I plan to use some of the extra room to make a sealed radio and esc box and use thru the bulkhead connectors on everything including servos and receiver packs. My Forrester "P" Sport Hydro was built like that, it's really easy to work on in a panic and keep the electronics dry. I have been running the same servo for 4 years and it was in it when I bought the boat! In fact, I have never had any electronic failure on that boat due to water. I'll also be adding a third connector for the motor/esc for a possible upgrade to BL in the future.

For now, I'm planning to go side by side on the cells until I'm satisfied with the CG and cell placement, then I will go end to end. I have also been considering some type of cell cooling system.

[Paul]

Hey Dan,
I have also been considering some type of cell cooling system.
I don't think that should be neccesary on these boats. 8 cell boats are the biggest battery killers on the water and we don't cool those. OTOH I will be using the battery spacers on hills site in between cells to let them "air out" a bit. The most heat is produced in the center of the cell so keeping them separated is your best bet.

Paul.

[Paul]

Hey Eddie,

50 amps isn't so bad. In any of the faster O or P type classes that would be the norm if not more. When I dial my boats in I try to pull between 2 to 2200 mah out of the batteries per run. You can figure the numbers cause I suck at math.:p

Paul.

[eddieh]

Originally posted by Paul
Hey Dan,

I don't think that should be neccesary on these boats. 8 cell boats are the biggest battery killers on the water and we don't cool those. OTOH I will be using the battery spacers on hills site in between cells to let them "air out" a bit. The most heat is produced in the center of the cell so keeping them separated is your best bet.

Paul.

Wow, I am learning more in the last month with this forum then I have in the last 6 months... spacers huh, cool, then I assume the shrinkwrap will be out too....

[eddieh]

Originally posted by Paul
Hey Eddie,

50 amps isn't so bad. In any of the faster O or P type classes that would be the norm if not more. When I dial my boats in I try to pull between 2 to 2200 mah out of the batteries per run. You can figure the numbers cause I suck at math.:p

Paul.

Paul That isn't my forte either, told my wife that the new project will be just a few bucks more then the norm....:D

actually going back to what I said about the learning, for some reason it clicked for me in the last week or so, pulling huge amps degrades the voltage, voltage times amp draw = watts, watts equal horsepower discounted by the efficiency of the motor, certain amount of watts necessary to turn a 55+mm prop a certain number of revs to obtain a certain speed, dividing that amp draw by size of cell to finish the race...
sorry if it seems simplistic, but to me it's as if someone turned a light on.. I will apply this to other boats... and again this is why this whole forum is so cool, what seems like basic knowledge to you guys is like a whole new concept to me.....
I really want to thank you guys!!!!
:)

[Dan Chase]

50 amps is baby stuff in FE, you should see Joerg draw 100+ amps getting T Hydro on step at the SAW!!!

I don't think that cell cooling is necessary on 1/8 scale either, but we have plenty of room and the weight penalty is nothing in the big picture, so I figure it's a good time to experiment with it.

Eddie, I don't use shrink on any of my racing packs, I just wrap a piece of electrical tape around the ends to keep them from shorting out and one around the middle to hold them together.

[Paul]

Hey Dan,
50 amps is baby stuff in FE,
LOL, don't I know that! I use the solder joints on the 3.5 plugs as fuses so I don't blow the good stuff up!

Paul.

[Paul]

Hey Eddie,

sorry if it seems simplistic,

LOL!!!!! you put it allot better than me. As a matter of fact my way of figuring it out is even more basic.

I don't use a GPS or other fancy gizmos, what I do is use time,(stop watch) mah used(battery charger) and part temps(hand hold) to dial in my boats.

You know more than me Eddie.

Paul.

[Kmot]

Originally posted by Eddieh

actually going back to what I said about the learning, for some reason it clicked for me in the last week or so, :)

Same thing happened to me. I was trying to learn series/parallel circuits in A&P school. 8 week electrical class and by the 6th week I'm panicking because it just won't 'clik'. Then one day it all made sense, and seemed so simple like it was no more difficult than adding 2+2! Weird how that worked.........

[eddieh]

Originally posted by Kmot
it was no more difficult than adding 2+2! .........

Ohhhh crap the lights just went out....:D