lsh rules and hulls

[interplanet]

where do I find the complete list of rules for lsh and building a lsh boat.
I know that the new roundnose is a good hull but what are some other ones.
How about the top contenders and the fast guys what do they run.
Going to build one to race so any info is greatly appreciatied.

Thanks,
Andy

[BoatDoc]

the NAMBA rule book is a good place to start. 3 of the top LSH hulls are the H&M viper, Dark Horse shovel, and Aussie shovel.

[interplanet]

i know where to get the viper but not the other two. anyone know where to get them

[Jay Turner]

You can't get them, at least not new. Both are discontinued. Maybe on the used market...

OTOH the Campbell Classic shovel is a competitive boat too. That would probably be my choice if I didn't already have an Aussie shovel.



m

[interplanet]

i kinda knew about the darkhorse but not the aussie, o well maybe ill find one

Go with the campbell !!!
http://www.classichydros.com/index.htm

[AndyKunz]

The other option is the UL-1. It was around before LSH (and part of the inspiration for it) and still competes at the National level in the class.

www.bbyracing.com has them.

Andy

[interplanet]

So i have been steered towards the cambell, now what motors are competitive.

[Terrance Nissen]

Cordite SS1. I don't think you can buy them new anymore but you may be able to get one off of the Swap Shop.

700SC. Sounds like it is a very good motor as well. Can be purchased at Offshore Electrics for about $45.

Graupner 700BB Turbo 8.4V. Another option that can be purchased at a few places for about $45.

There may be others but these are typical.

[Jay Turner]

I finally toasted my SS-1 last summer (over two years of heat racing twice a month) and purchased a 700SC. As far as I can tell it is just as fast as the SS-1 I had, and I'm very happy with it.


m

[interplanet]

well thats good. My dad says he's got the cordite and the turbo, so looks like I 'l be able to do some lsh racing this year, now if I can just figure out what batts to buy.

[Dan Proulx]

I think you'll be happy with the Campbell Shovel. It currently holds the NAMBA LSH record. It also placed 1st, 2nd & 3rd in LSH at the 2006 Sardine Classic in Wisconsin.

It's also a good N2 Sport Hydro hull.

For a motor I would go with the 700SC. The Graupner 8.4 heats up quite a bit with the Octura X645 or X642 when used in conjunction with the Campbell Shovel. It's either a lower wind motor than the 700SC or smaller gauge wire - whatever, I just know it's not the optimal choice for the range of props that the Campbell Shovel performs best with.

[jantagg]

I have run the Octura X645 without heat build up in my Campbell hull. By adding air traps 2 3/4 inches long and 1/2 inch deep (tapered to 1/8 inch) behind the sponsons, you will increase its speed.

[interplanet]

Can you post a picture of that

[Dan Proulx]

Regarding the airtraps - the original prototype Campbell shovels employed them.

They were later removed for the production boats since the speeds being attained were increasing so much (larely due to better batteries) that the boats were blowing off down the straights with all that air trapped under the hull.

They are not necessary on the current production boat if you have your driveline setup properly - you'll get all the lift you'll need to get the back end out of the water.

The heat build up was in respect to a Graupner 8.4v BB with an Octura X645. After a 10 lap race my experience and that of others is that the motor would come off the water at over 140 degrees -unless significant water cooling is being employed. On the other hand, with the SS1's and the like - temps hardly ever get over 110 degrees with water cooling. But, use whatever you like.

[DJ Campbell]

Hi Andrew, if you are just now buying the hull, the current versions will have small airtraps. Not as long as what Tom (jantagg) added. So give the boat a few runs first before trying anything. Then once your setup is optimal, you are certainly welcome to experiment, that's what we all like to do! I would add more airtrap length only in a LSH setup because the weight and motor limitations of the class. Really not needed in any BL setup.

[hydronut]

The Campbell Classic Hydros is a great LSH choice. I love racing mine, My boat runs faster with the Graupner Turbo 8.4 then it does with the SS1, The prop that seems to work best for my set is an M645 my motor runs a little warm but not out of line she comes off of the pond at 120 to 125 the fastest motor I have has been ran almost a year and is still strong, almost once a week running 4 to 5 , 10+ lap heats or practice heats. Have not tried the 700SC as of yet plan to get a couple this winter. Good luck and have fun with what ever choice you decide.

[bmwbob]

OK, the consensus seems to be that the Campbell shovel is the hull to get.
Very good on the 700SC motor, and X642 or X645 props.
For the hardware set, is the Solinger or Fuller the one to have?
Steven has a combo deal with the 700SC and a Jeti controller. Is this controller "the one", or is there a better choice?
As a "newbie", I have to ask: are you guys really running 12 cells on this motor/controller as the rules appear to allow?
Adhesives for the ABS hull and wooden subframe: I would tend to go with CA for the wood parts, waterproofing them with thinned 30 minute epoxy.
For gluing the subframe to the hull, as well as joining the ABS parts, what's the best adhesive to use?
Has anyone tried Devcon Plastic Welding 2-part adhesive? I had to use that stuff on a full-sized sailboat I had and it is AWESOME, IF your material can take the heat when it kicks off (FAST, I might add!).
For paint, is the special Krylon for plastics the one?
If you are going 12 cells, are you using 2 standard end-soldered 6 cell (two columns of 3 cells each) packs lying parallel to the keel? (Elite 4500's I suppose?)
I've seen some photos of a Campbell under construction, and it appears that some wood was being added to the inside bottom of the sponsons, and what appeared to be carbon pre-preg or possibly mat on the inner bottom of the forward center hull section.
Is there a thread somewhere that discusses the mods to the Campbell kit?
I'd hate to get one done only to show up at the lake and have someone ask:
"You DID do the _________ mod, DIDN'T you? :-(
Sorry about all the questions, but lots of info makes for better choices, so I ask!
Bob Cowgill
Mims, Florida
E-mail:rcowgill@cfl.rr.com

[Darin Jordan]

Originally Posted by bmwbob

For the hardware set, is the Solinger or Fuller the one to have?

I don't think there is "one to have"... They both have their merrits... I'd use the Fuller's Crumbgrabber stuff... Light, easy to install (one mounting point) and Ray lives just up the road!

[Dan Proulx]

Bob,

I don't think you have a bad choice among those you mentioned for hardware. Just a matter of what you like the best - both setups are great.

A lot of people use the R/C Hydros speed controller. I own about 8 of them and have never had a problem. Run em' underwater, whatever - there just is no better choice in my opinion for a brushed motor controler.

As far as adhesives go - I've had the most success using Goop for the entire build. Subframes to each other, sub-frame to hull, and deck to hull. I haven't had the best of luck using CA for the wood to wood joints. With all the jostling around that an R/C boat experiences, my experience has been that CA isn't the best choice for longevity.

The construction manual that's included with the kit is among the best that you'll ever find. Doug Campbell is a Technical Illustrator/Publicist by trade - and it's evident by looking at the manual he's put together. Many of the questions you have are answered in his manual.

Good luck and have fun with it.